UMASS/AMHERST 


31E0bt.005EE'=]3HH 


DATE  DUE 

.  I- 


UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 


UNIVERSITY  OF  MASSACHUSETTS 

AT 

AMHERST 


to 


PHILO 
SYSTEM 


THE  PHILO  SYSTEM 

OF 

PROGRESSIVE  POULTRY  KEEPING 

BY  E.  W.  PHILO 


The  purchasers  of  this  book  are  given  the  right  to  make  and  use 
any  and  all  appliances  herein  contained.  Owners  of  the  book  may 
employ  others  to  make  the  appliances;  but  persons  who  do  not 
own  the  book  have  no  right  to  use  the  appliances  nor  the  System. 


340th  Thousand 


Seventeenth  Edition 


1910 


E.  R.  PHILO,  Publisher 
ELMIRA,  N.  Y. 


P,S4 

COPYRIGHTED  1907 

BY 

E.  R.  PHILO 
All  Rights  Reserved 


INTRODUCTION. 

In  publishing  our  system  of  Progressive  Poultry  Keeping 
wesimply  give  the  facts  about  all  branches  of  the  work  that  have 
been  learned  from  experiments  conducted  by  the  hand  of  the 
writer.  We  have  learned  by  actual  tests  that  many  theories 
advanced  by  the  majority  of  poultry  writers  are  without  founda- 
tion. Men  gifted  with  the  power  of  imagination  and  the  ability 
to  write  an  entertaining  article  have  been  given  too  much  space 
in  publications. 

Our  experience  in  poultry  keeping  dates  back  over  a  period 
of  thirty-five  years,  and  the  mistakes  made  during  that  time  if, 
properly  explained,  would  fill  a  book  much  larger  than  this  one. 
While  many  of  our  mistakes  were  expensive  and  discouraging, 
we  were  dqtermmed  to  win  out,  and  as  the  failures  came,  we  had 
the  opportunity  to  study  the  causes,  and  again  start  from  the 
foundation  to  overcome  the  difficulties.  Many  times  the  dis- 
coveries were  surprising  to  us,  as  they  will,  no  doubt,  be  to  you, 
and  were  not  put  down  as  facts  until  each  of  them  had  been  tested 
for  at  least  five  years,  and  many  of  them  much  longer. 

We  have  learned  that  artificial  heat  supplied  to  chickens 
is  not  only  unnecessary,  but  better  poultry  may  be  raised  with- 
out it.  The  average  ordinary  heated  wood  brooder  is  too  com- 
plicated and  expensive,  and  there  is  too  much  danger  of  chilling, 
overheating,  or  burning  the  chickens.  When  they  come  into 
this  world  they  are  supplied  with  an  abundance  of  heat  and  all  we 
have  to  do  is  to  retain  it. 

When  green  cut  bone  is  fed  liberally  to  breeding  stock, 
good  eggs  from  which  to  hatch  strong  chickens  are  not  obtained, 
neither  are  the  eggs  likely  to  be  fertile. 

The  best  two  pound  broilers  can  be  raised  when  confined  to 
a  space  of  one  square  foot,  when  there  are  not  too  many  in  the 
flock. 

Pullets  may  be  properly  matured  in  a  space  of  one  and  a 
half  square  feet,  and  a  laying  hen  will  do  her  best  when  given 
three  square  feet  of  space.  While  it  is  generally  understood 
that  the  largest  egg  yields  from  laying  hens  are  obtained  from 
the  smallest  flocks,  the  system  is  not  in  general  use. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  get  six  eggs  from  six  hens  in  a  flock, 
seven  consecutive  days.  To  get  sixty  eggs  from  sixty  hens  in  a 
flock,  one  day  in  a  year  is  hardly  possible,  and,  as  far  as   our 


34149 


knowledge  goes,  is  not  on  record.  Sixty  hens  properly  bred  and 
kept  in  ten  colony  coops  will  lay  sixty  eggs  per  day  many  days 
in  the  year,  and  at  least  twenty-five  per  cent,  more  eggs  than  the 
flock  containing  sixty  hens.  When  chicks  do  their  best  they 
must  also  be  kept  in  small  flocks. 

The  natural  desire  of  men  to  get  rich  quick  without  much 
knowledge  of  the  business,  or  capital  to  invest  is  probably  the 
excuse  for  large  flocks.  They  estimate  the  profits  from  a  given 
number  of  hens  they  wish  to  keep,  and  figure  that  the  cost  of 
the  poultry  plant  would  be  less  when  the  fowls  are  maintained 
in  large  flocks. 

Our  aim  has  not  been  simply  to  get  the  greatest  returns,  as 
we  have  given  more  thought  to  economy  and  simplicity  in  labor 
saving  devices,  making  it  possible  to  keep  large  numbers  of  lay- 
ing hens  in  small  flocks  at  no  greater  expenditure  for  appliances 
than  where  large  numbers  are  kept  together.  Everything  in 
connection  with  our  system  is  made  with  a  view  of  using  all  kinds 
of  material  to  the  best  advantage,  and  without  waste.  The 
lumber,  wire,  muslin,  and  waterproof  covering  required  in  the 
construction  of  our  appliances  are  all  standard  sizes  and  may 
readily  be  obtained  in  all  villages  and  cities. 

While  the  advantages  of  the  Philo  System  are  many  they 
can  all  be  summed  up  in  one  word,  "success".  Follow  the  entire 
plan  as  outlined  and  success  is  sure. 

Very  truly  yours, 

E.  W.  PHILO. 


5 

STARTING  IN  THE  POULTRY  BUSINESS. 

The  best  way  to  start  In  the  poultry  business  is  to  begin 
with  two  pairs  of  the  best  birds  (not  related)  that  you  can  afford 
to  purchase.  When  the  details  of  our  system  are  carefully  fol- 
lowed and  the  breeding  stock  is  right,  it  will  be  perfectly  safe 
to  handle  as  large  a  business  from  the  start  as  you  can  provide 
necessary  appliances  for  and  the  time  required  for  proper  atten- 
tion and  care.  However,  the  disadvantage  is  likely  to  be  in- 
ferior stock  that  possibly  has  been  inbred,  or  that  has  not  been 
ra"sed  in  a  way  to  build  up  a  constitution  of  vigor  and  hardiness 
which  is  the  foundation  to  a  successful  business. 

By  starting  with  two  pairs  of  the  best  stock  obtainable,  with 
the  assurance  that  they  have  not  been  inbred,  you  will  get  large 
profits  more  quickly  than  to  start  with  a  dozen  or  more  birds. 
It  would  not  be  difficult  to  raise  twenty-five  pullets  and  a  number 
of  cockerels  the  first  season  from  two  hens,  furnishing  breeders 
that  would  give  you  three  hundred  pullets  the  second  year,  and 
th's  would  enable  you  to  do  as  large  a  business  as  you  like  the 
third  season.  While  these  figures  may  look  large,  they  are  not 
over  es  imated,  as  we  are  getting  still  greater  returns  right  here 
in  ou:  own  yard,  and  are  not  giving  them  as  careful  attention  as 
it  is  possible  to  do. 

^  Purchas  ng  the  best  eggs  obtainable  for  hatching  is  also  a 
desirable  way  to  start  in  the  business,  and  in  many  cases  would 
be  less  expensive  than  to  buy  the  stock.  We  would  not  advise 
you  tobuy  stock  that  wouldcost  less  than  ten  dollars  per  pair,  un- 
less you  know  positively  the  quality  and  can  get  them  for' less 
money; and  it  would  be  still  better  to  pay  twenty- five  dollars 
each,  provided  you  could  get  birds  so  well  bred  as  to  be  worth  the 
money. 

Two  sittings  of  eggs  at  five  dollars  each  should  produce 
more  and  better  stock  than  you  could  purchase  for  an  equal 
amount  of  money,  and  it  sometimes  happens  that  better  birds 
are  ra  sed  from  eggs  bought  than  from  those  raised  by  the  pro- 
ducer. If  you  can  find  eggs  from  very  choice  stock  for  ten 
dollars  a.  sitting,  it  would  prove  a  good  investment.  In  other 
words,  if  you  can  get  either  stock  or  eggs  that  are  really  worth 
the  money,  almos"  any  pri  e  is  not  too  much  to  pay,  as  what  you 
raise  from  them  would  soon  bring  you  large  additional  returns. 

If  you  are  to  buy  eggs  for  the  foundation  stock  they  should 
be  hatched  in  February  or  March  provided  the  fertility  is  guaran- 
teed. If  not,  get  the  eggs  during  the  natural  season  for  hatch- 
ing, April,  May  or  June. 


The  advantages  of  getting  eggs  for  hatching  that  are  laid 
during  January  or  February  are  that  you  are  sure  they  were  laid 
by  winter  layers;  and  after  breeding  in  this  manner  for  two  or 
or  three  generations  your  hens  will  lay  as  naturally  through  the 
cold  winter  months  as  others  do  in  June. 

If  they  are  to  be  hatched  during  the  winter  or  early  spring, 
one  of  the  brooder  coops  should  be  ready  when  they  hatch ,  which 
will  provide  the  necessary  protection  to  keep  them  in  the  best 
possible  condition  at  all  times. 

Before  eggs  are  ordered,  some  provision  should  be  made  for 
hatching  them  as  you  cannot  afford  to  take  chances  on  finding 
a  broody  hen,  or  on  the  prompt  delivery  of  an  incubator.  The 
successful  man  is  the  one  who  is  just  a  little  in  advance  of  his 
business,  and  takes  time  by  the  forelock. 

LOCATION. 

One  of  the  advantages  of  our  system  is  that  you  can  start  in 
the  business  where  you  now  live,  provided  you  have  four  square 
feet  of  land  for  each  fowl  you  wish  to  keep.  Three-fourths  of 
the  lands  is  for  fowls,  and  one-fourth  for  walks.  It  is  better, 
however,  to  have  twice  the  amount  of  land  required,  that  you 
may  alternate  the  poultry  yard  with  the  garden,  thereby  purify- 
ing the  ground  and  making  a  garden  that  will  astonish  the 
natives. 

Should  the  soil  be  low  and  damp  it  will  be  necessary  to  fill 
in  with  sand  or  gravel  so  it  will  be  slightly  above  the  ground 
around  it.  If  dry,  and  there  is  some  gravel  in  the  soil,  it  will 
not  be  necessary  to  fill  in.  Stony  or  coarse  lumpy  soil  should  be 
avoided,  as  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  ground  mellow,  which  is 
easily  accomplished  by  spading,  with  the  aid  of  the  hens  to  keep 
it  stirred  up. 

In  selecting  a  new  location  to  make  a  specialty  of  the  poultry 
business  you  will  find  it  of  advantage  to  get  a  place  where  the 
soil  is  composed  principally  of  sand  or  gravel.  It  is  also  an  ad- 
vantage to  have  it  slightly  rolling  with  a  South  or  East  exposure 
to  the  sun.  By  selecting  a  gravelly  soil  the  hens  are  furnished 
a  natural  grit  which  is  not  only  a  saving  in  the  expense  account 
of  the  plant,  but  is  actually  preferred  by  the  fowls  to  the  manu- 
factured grit. 

A  nice  apple  orchard  is  a  fine  place  during  the  hot  summer 
months,  and  the  increased  production  of  the  trees,  and  the  im- 
proved qual'ty  of  the  fruit  will  add  much  to  the  profits  of  the 
plant.     Grape  vines  and  plum  trees  grow  quickly  and  make  a 


desirable  shade,  as  well  as  being  very  productive. 

The  combination  of  poultry,  fruit,  and  garden  Is  one  of  the 
best,  and  the  possibilities  from  anacrelotcanhardlybe  estimated. 

To  make  the  combination  complete  a  few  colonies  of  bees 
should  be  kept.  There  is  hardly  a  thing  that  the  writer  has  un- 
dertaken that  has  brought  as  large  returns  for  the  amount  of 
capital  invested  and  labor  required  as  the  honey  bee.  One  sea- 
son 200  pounds  of  white  clover  honey  in  one  pound  boxes  were 
taken  from  one  colony  of  bees,  made  up  from  two  new  swarms 
combined.  The  time  required  to  care  for  the  bees  was  less  than 
a  day  and  the  value  of  the  honey  was  thirty  dollars.  This  of 
course  was  an  uncommon  yield,  still  half  that  amount  is  not  an 
uncommon  yield,  and  the  returns  are  large  enough  to  make  the 
business  interesting. 

SELECTING  BREEDERS  TO  PRODUCE  LAYERS. 

It  would  be  treading  upon  dangerous  ground  to  mention 
any  one  breed  of  fowls  as  being  superior  to  others  as  egg  pro- 
ducers. In  our  experience  it  is  not  so  much  the  breed  as  the 
strain,  as  careful  and  intelligent  breeding  will  do  wonders  in  a 
few  generations.  It  will  make  sitters  of  non-sitters,  and  non- 
sitters  of  the  breed  that  is  often  found  broody,  if  you  wish  to 
breed  to  that  end.  It  is  also  possible  to  make  the  very  best 
layers  from  poor  ones,  and  very  poor  ones  from  the  best. 

We  have  selected  the  Single  Comb  White  Orpingtons  simply 
for  the  reason  that  there  is  more  money  in  them  for  us  at  the 
present  time  than  in  many  of  the  other  breeds.  After  carefully 
selecting  and  breeding  them  for  seven  years  we  find  they  will  lay 
more  eggs  in  a  year  than  any  fowls  we  ever  kept,  although  we 
consider  it  possible  to  make  as  good  layers  from  many  of  the 
older  breeds.  Like  all  breeds,  they  have  their  good  qualities, 
but  we  will  not  go  into  the  details  of  any  particular  breed,  as 
it  is  largely  a  matter  of  choice  of  the  poultryman. 

When  undertaking  the  fancy  part  of  the  poultry  business, 
there  are  advantages  in  selecting  a  new  breed,  and  growing  up 
with  it.  There  are  many  noted  breeders  of  the  older  varieties, 
making  it  difficult  to  compete  with  them,  while  in  the  newer 
varieties  there  are  less  experts  at  the  work,  making  it  possible 
to  gain  a  substantial  footing  at  an  eariler  date. 

For  utility  breeding,  either  eggs  or  meat,  it  would  be  ex- 
ceedingly difficult  to  improve  on  many  of  the  old  standbys. 

The  systems  for  selecting  layers  that  are  now  advertised  in 
the  poultry  journals  were  practiced  by  the  writer  fifteen  years 


ago.  The  width  of  the  hen  and  general  make-up  will  determine 
to  a  certain  extent  her  value  as  a  layer.  It  is  not  always  true 
with  us  as  we  find  some  of  the  hens  that  are  not  quite  as  wide 
behind  as  the  widest,  are  superior  layers,  and  the  only  correct 
way  is  to  know  to  a  certanity  how  many  eggs  each  individual 
hen  will  lay  in  a  given  time,  but  we  do  not  consider  it  necessary 
to  have  a  complete  year's  record,  as  every  hen  will  show  her 
productiveness  in  each  lot  of  eggs  laid  between  her  rest  periods. 
After  a  hen  has  laid  a  certain  number  of  eggs  she  will  either  rest 
for  a  few  days  or  become  broody  when  the  stock  of  egg-making 
material  has  been  exhausted.  The  time  required  for  this  rest 
seldom  varies,  it  generally  being  just  one  week  from  the  time  the 
last  egg  was  laid  before  furnishing  the  first  one  of  the  new  lot. 
This  is,  of  course,  when  the  hens  are  properly  fed  and  in  good 
condition. 

In  our  tests  we  find  the  number  of  eggs  laid  between  the  rest 
periods  are  sometimes  not  over  nine,  while  others  will  lay  forty 
to  fifty  or  more  without  stopping.  The  number  of  eggs  laid  be- 
tween each  rest  is  not  sure  to  indicate  the  value  of  the  hen  as  an 
egg  producer,  as  it  often  happens  that  the  hen  producing  twelve 
eggs  between  the  rest  periods,  will  lay  them  in  twelve  consecu- 
tive days,  while  the  one  laying  more  eggs  without  stopping,  often 
requires  two  days  to  lay  one  egg.  A  day  and  date  record  for 
two  months  should  determine  the  quality  of  the  hen  af.  egg 
producer. 

The  pullets  that  first  begin  laying,  or  those  that  commence 
while  quite  young  are  generally  the  best  layers.  The  philo- 
sophy of  this  is  that  the  pullets  that  lay  first  have  matured  most 
quickly  because  constitutionally  more  vigorous.  The  same  phy- 
sical conditions  will  enable  them  to  produce  a  larger  number  of 
eggs  than  the  pullet  that  was  slower  in  coming  to  maturity  be- 
cause of  a  less  vigorous  constitution. 

In  selecting  layers  there  are  two  points  to  be  considered 
that  we  have  never  known  to  fail.  The  largest  individual  hens 
of  any  breed  are  never  the  best  layers,  and  the  hens  laying  the 
largest  eggs  never  lay  as  many  of  them  in  a  given  length  of  time. 
When  finding  a  hen  that  will  lay  twelve  eggs  in  twelve  consecu- 
tive days,  the  eggs  will  seldom  weigh  over  twenty- five  ounces  lo 
the  dozen,  and  the  hen  laying  very  large  ones  requires  two  ^ 
to  make  every  egg.  As  long  as  eggs  are  sold  by  the  dozen  it  it.  an 
advantage  to  the  poultryman  to  breed  hens  that  will  lay  eggs 
averaging  about  twenty-five  ounces  to  the  dozen.  They  are 
not  considered  small,  and  will  sell  at  the  highest  market  price. 

The  color  of  the  eggs  is  also  another  point  to  be  considered, 
as  eggs  of  a  uniform  color,  either  white  or  brown,  are  more  at- 


tractive  and  will  generally  bring  a  little  better  price  when  mark- 
eted. 

Breeding  from  the  best  layers  for  three  or  four  generations 
will  produce  a  strain  of  fowls  that  is  capable  of  producing  its 
like,  while  a  good  laying  hen  that  has  not  the  breeding  back  of 
her  is  not  likely  to  produce  her  equal. 

In  summing  up  we  will  give  a  few  points  that  go  to  make  up 
the  most  productive  hen. 

One  that  is  not  over  large  for  her  breed,  and  that  is  especially 
wide  and  deep  in  her  fluff. 

One  that  has  a  very  large  crop  for  her  size  and  has  it  well 
filled  at  night,  and  one  that  lays  eggs  of  a  medium  size. 

SELECTING  BREEDERS  FOR  BROILERS. 

In  selecting  breeders  for  broilers,  capons,  etc.,  one's  aim 
should  be  extreme  hardiness,  early  maturity  and  large,  well  de- 
veloped frames.  These  qualities  are  all  possible  with  the  best 
layers,  still  these  best  layers  may  not  be  the  best  for  the  broiler 
farm.  The  hen  that  lays  only  every  other  day  puts  more  vitality 
into  the  egg. 

-^^  is  generally  the  largest  of  her  breed,  and  her  eggs  also 
are  large,  furnishing  more  nutriment  for  the  growing  embryo 
and  more  yolk  for  the  chick  to  absorb,  to  give  it  a  good  start  in 
life  after  being  hatched. 

With  the  average  stocK,  first  crosses  will  make  the  best 
broilers,  and  make  them  more  quickly  than  the  ones  raised  from 
thoroughbreds.  This  is  on  account  of  the  breeders  not  being 
related,  and  is  the  point  which  should  convince  poultrymen  that 
the  practice  of  inbreeding  is  a  mistake.  It  is  possible,  however, 
to  get  as  good  results  from  the  thoroughbred  stock  when  they 
have  not  been  inbred  and  when  their  constitution  and  vigor  have 
been  retained  to  the  highest  degree. 

The  "First  Cross"  is  breeding  together  two  distinct  breeds 
and  the  offspring  would  be  hybrids,  not  valuable  to  use  as  breed- 
ers, for  mating  together,  nor  for  crossing  with  a  thoroughbred 
of  another  breed. 


SELECTING  BREEDERS  FOR  EXHIBITION. 

In  breeding  for  exhibition,  the  American  Standard  of  Per- 
fection should  be  consulted,  and  birds  selected  conforming  as 
nearly  as  possible  to  the  Standard  requirements.     When  it  is 


10 

possible,  the  males  should  be  especially  strong  in  the  points  where 
the  females  are  weakest.  The  size  and  shape  of  the  hen ,  and  the 
color  of  the  male  bird  are  reproduced  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten. 
A  Black  Minorca  male  crossed  with  Barred  Rock  females  will 
produce  black  fowls  shaped  like  Rocks,  and  a  Rock  male  crossed 
with  Minorca  hens  will  produce  barred  fowls  shaped  like  Minor- 
cas.  While  there  may  be  exceptions  to  the  rule,  it  may  safely 
be  relied  upon  in  nearly  every  case.  The  chicks  hatched  from 
the  first  six  eggs  laid  after  the  mating,  are  not  as  likely  to  follow 
the  color  of  the  male  as  those  laid  after  the  first  six. 

Leg  bands  should  be  used  on  all  breeders  and  a  caref  u  1  record 
kept;  giving  as  many  details  as  possible,  including  weight,  color, 
etc.,  just  as  given  on  a  score  card  as  indicated  on  another  page, 
the  necessary  cuts  being  made  after  carefully  comparing  the  bird 
with  the  illustration  in  the  Standard  and  making  the  cuts  for 
imperfections  as  indicated  therein. 

For  pedigree  breeding  this  record  is  indispensable,  as  the 
only  means  by  which  we  can  ascertain  facts  about  breeders  of 
the  past,  that  we  may  know  to  a  certainty  the  true  qualities  of 
the  stock  from  which  our  birds  have  sprung.  It  is  also  an  educa- 
tor in  itself,  as  it  plainly  shows  from  one  generation  to  the  next 
the  improvements  made,  and  how  they  were  brought  about; 
besides,  the  stock  thus  raised  has  a  market  value  greatly  in  ex- 
cess of  stock  of  the  same  quality  that  has  been  produced  by 
chance  or  haphazard  breeding. 

There  are  sixteen  individua  1 1  oe  marks  that  may  be  made  by 
punching  the  webs  between  the  toes  in  all  combinations.  As 
soon  as  the  chicks  are  hatched  they  should  be  thus  marked,  and 
a  careful  record  kept  showing  their  ancestors.  When  the  chicks 
have  matured  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  tell  the  breeders  which  are 
producing  valuable  show  birds,  and  these  should  be  retained  for 
many  years,  or  as  long  as  they  will  produce  superior  stock. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  best  specimens  do  not  pro- 
duce the  best  stock.  Several  years  ago  we  lost  all  of  our  best 
male  birds  of  one  breed  at  the  close  of  the  hatching  season. 
There  was  one  bird  left  that  we  considered  worthless  as  a  breeder. 
We  were  anxious  to  raise  a  few  more  chickens,  and  it  was  too  late 
in  the  season  to  purchase  a  valuable  bird,  so  we  concluded  to 
make  a  trial  of  the  one  we  had.  To  our  surprise  the  bestspeci- 
rr^ens  we  raised  that  season  were  from  this  male  bird  which  we 
had  considered  worthless,  and  the  chickens  were  especially 
strong  in  points  in  which  the  old  bird  was  weak.  The  breeding 
back  of  this  bird  was  of  the  very  best,  and  the  qualities  produced 
by  him  were  the  superior  qualities  of  his  ancestors. 


Official  Score  Card  of  the  American  Poultry  Association 


Date Variety . 

Owner Sex  ... 

Address Band  No. 

Entry  No Weight  . 


SHAPE 

COLOR 

REMARKS 

Symmetry 

Weight  or  Size 

Condition 

Head  and  Beak  

Eyes 

Comb 

Wattles  and  Ear-lobes.  . 

Neck 

Wings 

Back 

Tail 

Breast 

1"                          

Body  and  Fluff 

Legs  and  Toes 

*Hardness  of  Feather   . 

tCrest  and  Beard  .    . 



^Applies  to  Games  and  Game  Bantams 
t Applies  to  Crested  breeds 

Name  of  Judge 

Secretary  


This  form  should  be  used  to  keep  an  accurate  record  of  the  breeding 
stock.  We  can  furnish  printed  books,  as  above,  of  a  hundred  sheets  for 
25  cents,  postpaid. 


12 

Seconds  from  carefully  Lied  stock  are  more  valuable  for 
breeding  purposes  than  the  firsts  from  stock  that  has  been  care, 
lessly  bred. 

THE  BEST  AGE  FOR  BREEDERS. 

In  this  matter  our  experience  differs  from  the  theories  ad- 
vanced by  most  breeders,  as  it  is  generally  claimed  that  the  cock- 
erels mated  to  two  year  old  hens  are  best. 

We  get  best  results  from  breeders  both  male  and  female  that 
are  just  past  one  year  old.  The  pullets  having  then  reached 
maturity,  the  time  of  laying  large  eggs,  are  then  fully  developed 
and  should  be  in  better  physical  condition  than  either  earlier 
or  later  in  life. 

A  male  bird  that  has  been  with  hens  constantly  for  a  year 
is  not  likely  to  be  a  good  breeder  during  the  succeeding  winter, 
and  needs  a  few  months'  rest.  You  will  be  surer  of  satisfactory 
results  by  using  a  younger  bird  just  matured. 

Our  breeding  stock  is  all  hatched  in  February  or  March  and 
is  grown  as  rapidly  as  possible,  commencing  to  lay  in  August  or 
September,  and  laying  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  eggs  each  be- 
fore the  new  year,  when  they  are  to  be  used  as  breeders. 

From  twenty-five  to  fifty  per  cent,  of  the  winter-hatched 
pullets  will  go  through  the  molt  in  October  or  November,  gener- 
ally completing  it  in  about  half  the  time  required  by  old  hens. 
After  completing  the  molt  they  are  full-fledged  hens  and  in  prime 
condition  for  breeders  or  the  show  room.  The  fertility  of  the 
eggs  is  then  at  its  best,  and  the  chicks  after  being  hatched,  are 
more  easily  raised  than  those  from  old  or  very  young  hens,  be- 
sides reaching  maturity  at  an  earlier  age. 

This  system  also  has  the  advantage  of  raising  stock  that 
comes  to  laying  during  the  cold  Winter  months  as  naturally  as 
the  average  stock  lays  in  May  and  June 

When  raising  exhibition  fowls,  it  is  best  to  use  your  choice 
breeding  stock  as  long  at  they  will  produce  birds  of  superior 
quality.     Females  from  five  to  ten  years  old  are  often  valuable. 

FERTILITY. 

Three  days  after  mating,  fertile  eggs  may  be  expected.  If 
the  matings  have  been  changed,  some  results  from  the  former 
mating  will  be  in  evidence.  The  following  six  eggs  are  also  likely 
to  produce  birds  showing  the  characteristics  of  either  mating. 


13 

Careful  tests  have  shown  that  not  over  twelve  eggs  will  be 
fertilized  after  the  sexes  have  been  separated,  and  in  many  in- 
stances the  fertility  ends  with  the  sixth  egg.  After  two  weeks' 
mating  we  may  expect  nothing  but  the  results  from  the  last 
mating. 

When  a  hen  becomes  broody  she  may  be  taken  from  one 
pen  and  placed  in  another  where  she  should  again  commence 
laying  in  one  week.  The  first  egg  laid  will  be  fertilized  by  the 
last  mating. 

FERTILITY  AND  HATCHABILITY 

A  very  large  per  cent,  of  all  poultry  keepers  are  now  learn- 
ing that  fertile  eggs  and  those  capable  of  producing  strong  chick- 
ens are  two  different  things.  Every  egg  from  a  hen  or  pen  of 
fowls  may  be  strongly  fertilized,  yet  not  composed  of  the  proper 
material  to  furnish  a  chick.  It  should  not  be  difficult  to  find  the 
reason  for  the  defect,  still  hundreds  of  people  are  puzzled,  and 
think  the  trouble  is  due  to  improper  incubation.  In  ninety-nine 
out  of  one  hundred  cases  the  trouble  is  in  the  feeding,  and  the 
food  used  is  too  fattening  and  lacks  bulk. 

A  pen  of  fowls  purchased  from  a  party  who  had  paid  but 
little  attention  to  their  feeding  may  serve  as  an  illustration. 
The  first  eggs  laid  after  they  came  to  us  were  fertile,  but  the 
chicks  died  in  the  shell  at  about  the  tenth  day.  The  next  lot 
did  better,  but  did  not  hatch.  However,  after  these  hens  had 
been  fed  on  coarse,  bulky  food,  including  clover,  for  about  three 
weeks,  their  eggs  hatched  well,  and  have  done  so  ever  since. 
The  progress  made  in  their  improvement  along  this  line  has  been 
steady  and  before  the  close  of  the  season  we  expect  to  produce 
chickens  which  will  leave  the  shell  with  a  bound, andgrowfrom  a 
tiny  ball  to  a  mature  hen  in  the  shortest  required  space  of  time. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  having  trouble  along  this  line  we  will 
say  that  the  foods  used  to  overcome  these  defects  in  eggs  from 
which  to  hatch  strong  chickens  are  as  follows:  Whole  oats 
wheat  bran,  sweet  milk,  lean  beef,  and  green  food,  either  cut 
clover  or  alfalfa,  or  sprouted  oats. 

In  Summer  we  use  a  mash  composed  of  at  least  three- 
fourths  green  food  in  some  form,  clover,  alfalfa  or  lawn  clippings. 


14 
BREEDING  IN  LINE. 

Line  breeding  is  to  use  our  own  stock  and  not  to  introduce 
new  blood  without  the  knowledge  of  what  it  will  produce. 

Inbreeding  is  generally  practiced  to  start  line  breeding, 
although  it  is  not  the  proper  way  for  the  best  results,  especially 
when  breeding  utility  stock,  as  the  vitality  is  weakened  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  requiring  several  years  to  overcome  the  bad  effects. 

Our  way  to  start  line  breeding  is  to  get  eggs  or  stock  from 
two  poultrymen  who  are  separated  by  as  many  miles  as  possible. 
The  birds  are  not  as  likely  to  be  related  as  those  from  the  nearby 
poultry  yards;  and  should  they  be  related,  the  fact  that  they  have 
been  bred  under  different  conditions  of  climate,  etc.,  will  render 
them  of  nearly  as  much  value  as  birds  not  related.  You  will 
then  carry  two  distinct  strains  and  may  use  the  male  birds  from 
one  side  to  cross  with  the  females  of  the  other  side.  After  the 
first  cross  it  will  be  necessary  to  cross  first  cousins,  which  is  not 
considered  inbreeding,  and  this  will  produce  stock  that  is  more 
likely  to  inherit  the  good  qualities  of  its  ancestors. 


CARE  OF  BREEDING  STOCK. 

Natural  conditions  are  the  essential  points  to  success.  While 
it  is  not  possible  in  a  cold  climate,  during  the  best  breeding  season 
of  the  year,  to  Dring  about  perfectly  natural  conditions,  we  are  to 
do  so  as  neaily  as  possible. 

It  is  necessary  to  commence  the  work  before  the  first  cold 
weather,  that  the  change  may  be  gradual  and  the  fowls  hardened 
under  natural  conditions  to  the  extreme  cold  weather.  They 
must  be  protected  from  the  wind  and  direct  draft,  having  at  the 
same  time  the  full  outside  weather  conditions,  and  without  being 
in  the  rain  or  snow.  Our  combined  Summer  and  Winter  Colony 
coop  is  well  adapted  to  get  the  desired  conditions.  Other  build- 
ings that  will  answer  the  purpose,  and  save  the  cost  of  the  colony 
coop,  may  easily  be  arranged  with  but  little  expense  and  labor. 

We  used  the  loft  of  an  old  barn  for  some  of  our  best  breeding 
stock  one  winter  with  very  satisfactory  results.  There  were  no 
glass  or  window  openings,  so  large  openings  were  made  on  the 
south  side  six  inches  from  the  floor,  six  inches  from  the  roof  and 
six  feet  long,  and  the  opening  covered  with  muslin.  A  tight  box 
three  feet  wide,  three  feet  deep  and  just  long  enough  to  accomo- 
date the  fowls  on  two  perches,  allowing  two  feet  in  length  for 
every  five  birds,  was  nailed  in  the  rear  of  the  room  two  feet  above 
the  floor,  the  opening  of  the  box  facing  the  south,  or  front  of 


15 

the  room,  and  covered  with  a  burlap  curtain  that  was  let  down 
every  night  to  retain  the  heat  of  the  fowls,  keeping  them  com- 
fortable and  at  the  same  time  supplying  an  abundance  of  fresh 
air.  It  was  nearly  as  cold  in  the  room  outside  of  the  roosting 
box  as  the  outside  weather  conditions,  yet  the  fowls  in  the  box 
did  not  suffer,  and  their  combs  were  not  frosted. 

Whole  oats,  dry  wheat  bran,  cut  clover  and  oyster  shells 
were  kept  in  boxes  all  the  time,  and  a  little  wheat,  buckwheat  and 
barley  was  scattered  in  the  litter  at  night  after  roosting  time,  so 
that  in  the  morning  they  might  exercise  enough  to  warm  up,  and 
get  their  blood  circulatiiig.  Cracked  corn  was  used  for  the  night 
food  and  scattered  in  the  litter  about  three  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, which  would  keep  them  busy  until  roosting  time.  Water 
was  given  them  in  the  morning  and  at  noon;  and  on  very  cold 
days  it  was  necessary  to  empty  out  the  ice  and  furnish  water 
four  or  five  tmies  during  the  day.  If  the  water  supply  is  allowed 
to  run  short  the  egg  supply  will  suddenly  be  cut  ofif. 

We  never  feed  condition  powders,  nor  any  of  the  patent 
material  for  promoting  egg  production,  as  it  weakens  the  vitality 
of  the  stock  and  brings  about  unnatural  conditions  that  are 
ruinous  to  a  fertile  egg  supply.  Green  cut  bone  was  never  given , 
as  we  had  discovered  that  eggs  were  not  good  for  hatching  after 
fowls  were  fed  green  cut  bone  during  the  winter.  When  lean 
beef  can  be  had  at  a  reasonable  cost  it  is  advisable  to  use  it,  and 
the  results  will  be  very  satisfactory.  Bone,  if  fed  at  all,  should 
be  dried  and  ground,  or  burned  and  crumbled.  Grease,  tallow 
and  the  marrow  of  the  bones  should  never  be  fed  except  to  fowls 
that  are  being  fattened. 

The  pen  of  fourteen  hens  in  the  Darn  loft  furnished  us  from 
eight  to  twelve  and,  occasionally  fourteen  eggs  per  day  during 
the  entire  winter  and  spring.  Nine  eggs  were  set  the  20th  of 
January  to  test  fertility,  and  nine  chicks  were  the  result.  After 
the  20th,  all  perfect-shell  eggs  were  incubated,  and  the  lowest 
fertility  during  the  Winter  was  five  infertile  eggs  from  one  hun- 
dred. Several  sittings  showed  one  hundred  per  cent,  fertility 
many  times  hatching  every  egg.  The  average  hatch  during  the 
winter  was  over  ninety  per  cent,  from  all  eggs  set,  and  ninety- 
eight  per  cent  of  the  chickens  assigned  to  our  brooder  coops  were 
successfully  raised. 

KEEPING  EGGS  FOR  HATCHING. 

The  very  best  treatment  to  give  eggs  for  hatching  is  to  set 
them  the  same  day  they  are  laid.  When  breeding  from  one  or 
two  hens  this  is  not  always  advisable.     They  may  be  kept  in 


16 

good  condition  for  a  week  or  two,  although  we  seldom  incubate 
eggs  over  one  week  old.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  hatch  eggs  six 
weeks  old,  still  it  is  not  advisable,  as  it  would  be  very  difficult 
to  raise  the  chickens.  The  loss  of  fertility  is  not  the  only  thing 
to  be  taken  into  consideration.  The  evaporation  of  the  moisture 
from  the  egg  commences  at  once,  taking  with  it  some  of  the  mate- 
rial necessary  to  grow  a  strong  chicken,  and  making  a  deprecia- 
tion in  its  value  each  succeeding  day  until  the  egg  is  worthless 
for  incubation.  The  age  of  the  egg  before  commencing  to  in- 
cubate has  much  to  do  with  the  amount  of  moisture  to  be  sup- 
plied during  the  process  of  incubation.  A  perfectly  fresh  egg 
in  a  properly  constructed  incubator  should  never  require  sup- 
plied moisture.  While  the  moisture  may  be  supplied  to  bring 
out  a  satisfactory  hatch  the  same  quality  of  material  cannot  be 
replaced  that  was  lost  by  ev^aporation,  and  the  vitality  of  the 
chick  is  weakened  to  a  degree  corresponding  to  the  age  of  the 

While  keeping  eggs  for  hatching  it  is  not  best  to  turn  the 
eggs  every  day  as  is  generally  advised,  for  it  weakens  the  al- 
bumen, making  it  more  volatile  and  capable  of  penetrating  the 
shell  to  a  greater  extent;  besides  bringing  the  germ  capable  of 
producing  life  nearer  the  surface  of  the  shell,  until  finally  it 
becomes  attached,  when  it  is  worthless  for  incubation. 

As  the  temperature  is  increased  above  the  freezing  point, 
evaporation  increases  in  proportion.  An  egg  kept  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  eighty  degrees  will  lose  as  much  in  weight  in  one  week  as 
it  would  in  two  weeks  at  a  temperature  of  fifty-five  degrees; 
and  its  value  at  two  weeks  is  not  equal  to  that  of  eggs  kept  at  a 
temperature  of  fifty-five  degrees,  as  the  temperature  is  too  high 
to  retain  the  living  germ  in  a  perfectly  dormant  condition. 

A  low  temperature  does  not  weaken  the  vitality  of  the  germ. 
If  too  low,  it  kills  it  outright  and  the  egg  may  be  kept  as  an  in- 
fertile egg,  and  it  will  dry  up  in  time  without  decaying.  We 
have  had  good  hatches  from  a  basket  of  eggs  where  twenty-five 
per  cent,  of  them  were  frozen  and  cracked  open.  About  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  of  those  not  cracked  were  killed,  while  the  other 
fifty  per  cent,  produced  fine  chickens  that  were  raised  to  maturity, 
and  made  healthy  stock. 

In  all  of  our  experiments  the  germ  has  been  killed  at  some 
point  below  twenty-eight  degrees  above  zero  when  exposed  for 
at  least  twelve  hours.  A  temperature  below  fifty  degrees  is 
better  for  eggs  that  are  to  be  hatched  than  any  point  higher. 

Eggs  that  are  intended  for  incubation  should  never  be 
placed  with  the  small  end  down.  It  is  not  their  natural  position. 
After  standing  on  the  small  end  for  a  week  or  two  the  germ  will 


19 

float  near  the  air  cell  in  the  ^arge  end  of  the  egg.  The  chick  will 
grow  naturally  for  about  ten  days,  then  the  growth  will  not  be 
normal  and  the  chick  will  not  be  properly  matured  at  hatching 
time.  It  is  also  more  likely  to  bring  the  chick's  head  at  the 
small  end  of  the  egg,  making  it  nearly  impossible  to  free  itself 
from  the  shell  without  help. 

A  temperature  of  eighty-five  degrees  for  a  few  hours  will 
start  incubation,  and  the  embrvo  will  die  during  the  next  twenty- 
four  hours,  unless  the  temperature  is  raised  to  at  least  one  hundred 
degrees.     The  egg  will  then  decay. 

A  temperature  of  115  degrees  for  five  hours  will  kill  the 
germ  and  the  egg  will  appear  infertile,  and  will  keep  nearly  as 
long  as  an  infertile  egg. 

CONTROLLING  THE  SEX. 

To  raise  cockerels  select  a  very  strong,  active  male.  A 
young  bird  is  generally  better  than  an  old  one.  Then  select 
hens  that  are  from  two  to  five  years  old.  When  but  one  hen  is 
used  in  the  breeding  pen  you  will  hatch  from  seventy  to  ninety 
per  cent,  cockerels.  By  increasing  the  number  of  females  in 
the  pen  you  will  increase  in  proportion  the  number  of  females 
raised. 

To  raise  nearly  all  pullets,  use  an  old  male  bird  or  cockerel 
not  especially  active,  mated  to  thirty  or  forty  good  lively  pullets. 
You  will  not  be  likely  to  get  the  highest  average  fertility,  but 
the  chickens  hatched  will  run  largely  to  pullets.  In  one  experi- 
ment we  raised  seventy  pullets  from  seventy-seven  chickens 
hatched. 

The  early  hatched  chickens  are  likely  to  run  to  cockerels 
to  a  much  greater  extent  than  those  hatched  from  the  same  pens 
later  in  the  season. 

When  the  vitality  of  the  male  is  greatly  in  excess  of  the 
females  the  chicks  will  run  largely  to  males,  and  when  the  fe- 
males are  superior  in  that  respect,  a  large  portion  of  the  chicks 
will  be  pullets. 

SELECTING    EGGS. 

In  selecting  eggs  from  which  to  hatch  our  best  layers,  those 
weighing  about  twenty-five  ounces  to  the  dozen  have  the  pref- 
erence. 

The  shells  should  be  smooth  and  uniform  In  shape  and  color. 
The  ones  that  have  a  ridge  around  the  center,  and  those  with 


20 

rough  ends  are  rejected.  When  the  rough  end  appears  firm  and 
the  shell  as  thick  as  other  portions  of  the  egg  it  may  safely  be 
used. 

Eggs  having  a  metallic  ring  when  being  handled  or  rubbed 
between  the  hands  are  infertile,  and  the  eggs  that  feel  smooth 
and  solid  with  a  dull  heavy  ring  like  a  ripe  watermelon  are  best. 

Large  eggs  are  best  to  hatch  broilers  from  as  a  rule,  al- 
though the  eggs  weighing  twenty-five  ounces  or  more  should 
produce  quick  maturing  broilers. 

Hens'  eggs  weighing  more  than  thirty-two  or  less  than 
twenty-four  ounces  to  the  dozen  should  never  be  set. 

ARTIFICIAL  INCUBATION. 

The  success  of  artificial  incubation  depends  fully  as  much 
upon  the  quality  and  condition  of  the  eggs  as  upon  the  machine 
or  operator.  Eggs  produced  under  the  conditions  outlined  in 
this  book  are  easily  hatched  as  compared  with  the  eggs  peo- 
duced  without  any  definite  knowledge  as  to  what  is  actually 
required. 

But  when  the  eggs  are  right,  nine  out  of  every  ten  failures 
are  due  directly  to  improper  care  the  first  week  of  incubation, 
although  the  chick  will  develop  under  improper  handling,  it 
will  not  hatch  properly  unless  it  has  been  properly  developed  by 
the  end  of  the  first  week. 

If  there  has  been  too  much  cooling,  or  the  temperature  has 
been  low  during  the  first  seven  days  it  is  exceedingly  difficult 
to  get  satisfactory  results;  the  hatch  is  likely  to  be  delayed  and 
chicks  hatched  with  crooked  toes.  When  they  have  been  proper- 
ly handled  the  first  week  the  chances  are  good  for  a  good  hatch 
even  though  they  suffer  from  neglect  during  the  later  stages, 
and  after  two  weeks  of  proper  handling  they  will  hatch  when 
subjected  to  very  harsh  treatment. 

After  the  first  week,  the  temperature  of  the  eggs  may  drop 
to  fifty  degrees  for  several  hours,  with  no  serious  damage.  Of 
course  it  is  much  better  to  keep  the  temperature  within  regular 
limits,  but  you  need  not  be  frightened  because  of  variations, 
if  not  continued  too  long. 

FIRST  WEEK  (102). 

At"  the  end  of  the  first  twenty-four  hours  after  the  eggs  have 
been  placed  in  the  machine  the  thermometer  should  register 
about  one  hundred  and  two  degrees  with  the  bulb  touching  the 


21 

upper  surface  of  the  egg.  This  temperature  should  be  main- 
tained as  steadily  as  possible  during  the  first  week  with  but 
little  airing. 

The  relative  position  of  the  eggs  should  be  changed  at  least 
twice  daily  and  three  times  is  better  when  they  can  be  quickly 
changed  without  much  cooling.  The  machine  should  not  be 
opened  more  than  two  minutes  at  a  time  during  the  first  week. 

In  turning  it  is  not  important  that  the  eggs  should  be  turned 
exactly  half  way  over,  simply  change  their  position. 

Nature  has  provided  for  the  very  frail  condition  of  the  em- 
bryo during  the  first  five  days  in  two  ways:  First,  by  giving  a 
hen  the  instinct  to  stick  closely  to  the  nest  during  this  time,  and 
secondly  by  allowing  the  embryo  to  float  to  the  surface  no  matter 
what  position  the  egg  is  in,  during  the  first  five  days,  that  it 
may  come  in  contact  with  the  heating  surface  of  the  hen's  body. 
After  five  days,  when  the  embryo  becomes  stationary,  there  is 
quite  a  network  of  blood  veins,  and  the  rapid  movement  of  the 
heart  causes  the  blood  to  circulate  more  than  half  way  around 
the  egg,  thereby  generating  heat  that  is  a  help  in  overcoming 
excessive  cooling. 

SECOND  WEEK  (103) 

At  the  beginning  of  the  second  week  the  blood  veins  should 
completely  encircle  the  egg  near  the  air  cell.  Should  there  be  a 
space  not  covered  it  would  indicate  a  lack  of  heat,  too  much 
cooling,  or  a  deficiency  in  the  egg.  If  there  is  a  clear  space  of  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  between  the  extreme  ends  of  the  blood  veins, 
and  the  egg  is  not  at  fault ,  the  defective  work  of  the  first  week  may 
be  partially  overcome  by  carrying  the  temperature  a  half  degree 
higher  than  is  best  under  natural  conditions  during  the  remainder 
of  the  hatch. 

When  properly  developed  at  the  beginning  of  the  second 
week,  the  temperature  should  be  carried  as  nearly  as  possible  at 
103  degrees.  The  eggs  should  be  turned  two  or  three  times  daily 
as  during  the  first  week,  and  when  turning  the  last  time  at  night 
they  should  be  cooled  about  five  minutes  when  the  room  is  from 
sixty  to  seventy  degrees.  If  above  seventy  degrees  they  should 
be  cooled  one  minute  longer  for  every  two  degrees  above  seventy 
degrees.  When  the  room  temperature  is  below  sixty,  one  min- 
ute should  be  taken  from  the  five,  for  every  five  degrees  cooler 
which  would  allow  but  one  minute  (about  the  time  required  to 
turn  the  eggs),  in  a  room  temperature  of  forty  degrees.  If  the 
temperature  of  the  eggs  should  be  found  above  103  degrees  the 


22 

eggs  should  be  cooled  five  minutes  longer  for  each  degree  too 
high.  If  found  at  104  degrees  they  should  be  cooled  ten  minutes, 
or  fifteen  minutes  if  found  at  105  degrees.  If  at  any  time  the 
temperature  should  be  at  106  or  beyond,  it  may  be  quickly  re- 
duced by  sprinkling  the  eggs  with  cold  water. 

Should  the  temperature  of  the  eggs  get  below  the  desired 
point  at  any  time  do  not  cool  them  nor  turn  them;  close  the  ma- 
chine quickly  and  allow  the  eggs  to  warm  up  first.  If  the  lamp 
should  accidently  go  out,  allowing  the  eggs  to  get  cold,  a  few  flat 
bottles  or  rubber  bags  of  hot  water, or  cJloths  wrung  out  of  hot 
water  laid  on  the  eggs  will  quickly  restore  the  heat. 

THIRD    WEEK    (103  1-2) 

The  rules  as  above  for  the  second  week  are  used  during  the 
last  week,  and  the  only  changes  made  are  to  allow  the  tempera- 
ture to  run  a  half  degree  higher,  and  cool  eggs  five  minutes  long- 
er, making  the  standard  time  for  cooling  ten  minutes  in  place 
of  five,  and  the  temperature  of  the  eggs  103  j/^  degrees  in  place 
of  103. 

By  cooling  the  eggs  the  last  thing  at  night  they  have  a  better 
chance  to  regain  the  lost  heat,  and  are  not  likely  to  get  over- 
heated before  morning. 

On  the  seventh;  twelfth  and  seventeenth  days  cool  the  eggs 
a  full  half-hour  in  a  room  temperature  of  about  seventy  degrees. 
In  cooling  the  eggs  thus,  the  contents  contract,  drawing  through 
the  pores  of  the  egg  shell  a  good  supply  of  oxygen  that  is  needed 
for  the  proper  development  of  the  chick. 

The  above  directions  apply  to  machines  heated  with  hot 
air  from  above.  When  they  are  heated  from  the  bottom  or  are 
heated  with  hot  water,  the  temperature  should  be  maintained 
one-half  degree  cooler  than  above. 

Never  under  any  conditions  put  eggs  on  top  of  the  eggs  on 
the  trays  so  there  will  be  two  layers. 

When  the  regulator  of  a  machine  has  been  properly  ad- 
justed, give  it  plenty  of  time  to  do  its  work  before  readjusting. 
Many  hatches  are  ruined  by  playing  with  the  regulator.  After 
the  eggs  have  been  cooled  the  damper  will  sometimes  open  with 
a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees.  When  they  are  thoroughly 
heated  through  and  before  settling  down  to  business  the  ther- 
mometer will  register  104  or  105  degrees  before  it  has  time  to 
reach  the  correct  adjustment.  The  fact  that  the  thermometer 
registers  a  little  high  does  not  indicate  that  the  inside  of  the  eggs 
has  reached  that  degree  of  heat,  as  it  requires  several  hours  to 


23 

change  the  temperature  of  the  egg  more  than  one  degree. 

While  no  absolute  rule  can  be  given  as  to  what  degree  of 
heat  will  kill  the  germ,  yet  the  following  will  serve  as  a  guide  in 
determining:  A  temperature  of  108  degrees  for  ten  hours  the 
first  week;  of  110  for  same  time  the  second  week;  and  of  115  the 
third  week,  will  almost  surely  kill  the  germ,  so  that  no  chick 
can  be  hatched. 

TESTING. 

The  eggs  should  be  tested  as  soon  as  the  germ  can  be  de- 
tected, which  is  about  five  days  for  eggs  with  white  shells,  and 
one  week  for  eggs  with  brown  or  dark  colored  shells.  In  test- 
ing hold  the  egg  between  the  thumbs  and  fingers  of  both  hands, 
keeping  the  hands  as  flat  as  possible  to  exclude  the  light  near 
the  egg.  Close  the  hands  on  the  egg  so  there  will  not  be  any 
openings  for  light  between  the  hands  and  egg.  Then  by  holding 
the  egg  before  a  strong  light  you  can  see  perfectly  the  condition 
of  the  egg  and  its  contents.  Egg  testers  are  not  to  be  compared 
with  this  system  after  having  a  little  practice  and  learning  just 
how  to  hold  the  egg. 

Three  eggs  may  be  tested  in  this  manner  in  the  same  time 
required  to  test  one  with  an  ordinary  tester.  Testing  is  best 
done  at  night.     Look  through  the  side  of  the  egg,  not  the  end. 

Discard  all  eggs  that  are  perfectly  clear,  and  those  having 
a  decided  dark  ring  around  the  embryo,  as  these  are  imperfectly 
fertilized  and  will  not  produce  chickens. 

Chickens  have  more  difficulty  in  getting  out  of  the  shells 
when  the  temperature  has  been  carried  too  low  than  they  do 
when  the  average  temperature  has  been  full  high  enough.  Too 
much  cooling  the  first  week  will  retard  the  growth  of  the  embryo 
to  such  an  extent  that  the  albumen  will  not  all  be  consumed. 
The  chick  will  hatch  a  day  or  two  late  and  will  be  glued  to  every- 
thing it  touches 

Unless  your  machine  is  very  poorly  constructed,  moisture 
should  never  be  supplied  before  the  last  week,  and  then  is  not 
required  when  newly  laid  eggs  are  being  incubated.  When  the 
hatch  is  delayed  and  the  chicks  are  slow  in  breaking  the  shell, 
dampen  a  woolen  cloth  with  hot  water  and  lay  it  over  the  eggs. 

As  soon  as  the  chicks  are  dried  off  they  should  be  removed 
at  once  to  the  brooder.     (See  Brooding.) 


24 

HATCHING   WITH   HENS. 

All  sorts  of  interesting  and  uninteresting  advice  has  been 
given  about  setting  hens.  When  persons  have  one  good  hatch 
they  take  it  for  granted  that  they  have  solved  the  problem. 

Regarding  the  location  of  the  nest ,  the  advice  most  generally 
given  is  to  place  it  on  the  ground.  After  careful  tests  for  thirty 
years  we  are  not  prepared  to  say  that  the  ground  is  a  better  place 
to  set  a  hen  than  the  loft  of  a  barn. 

Poor  results  in  hatching  with  the  hens  may  be  traced  to 
but  few  causes,  provided  the  eggs  are  what  they  should  be.  If 
eggs  are  accidentally  broken  in  the  nest,  the  shells  of  the  other 
eggsmustbethoroughly  cleaned  so  that  the  pores  may  be  opened 
for  the  admission  of  air  to  the  growing  chicks.  During  the  first 
week  of  incubation  it  will  not  injure  the  embryo  if  the  egg  -is 
coated  with  the  contents  of  the  broken  egg  for  twenty-four  hours, 
and  then  thoroughly  cleaned.  If  coated  twelve  hours  the  second 
week  the  chances  are  against  it,  and  if  the  egg  remains  entirely 
coated  for  two  hours  the  third  week  the  chick  will  die. 

The  quiet  hen  that  would  naturally  be  considered  the  best 
sitter  is  really  the  poorest  hatcher,  as  she  retains  the  same  posi- 
tion on  the  nest  too  long  at  a  time,  not  giving  the  eggs  air  or  the 
embryo  the  exercise  by  moving  about  and  changing  the  posi- 
tion of  the  eggs.  The  hens  doing  the  best  work  are  those  having 
a  nervous  temperament,  changingabout  onthe  nest  and  changing 
the  position  of  the  eggs  in  the  nest  with  their  beaks. 

When  you  have  a  close  sitter,  she  should  be  lifted  every 
time  you  have  the  opportunity,  changing  the  eggs  about  in  the 
nest  with  your  hands.  The  eggs  that  feel  cool,  or  not  quite  as 
warm  as  others,  should  be  placed  in  the  center  of  the  nest. 

You  can  save  every  chick  by  removing  the  eggs  as  soon  as 
the  first  one  is  found  pipped,  and  placing  them  between  wollen 
cloths  thick  enough  to  retain  the  heat  and  keeping  them  near 
the  stove  or  in  a  temperature  from  eighty  to  ninety  degrees. 
This  would  not  answer  for  three  or  four  eggs  containing  chicks 
without  keeping  them  in  a  warmer  place,  but  where  there  are 
ten  or  more  the  heat  of  the  chicks  will  do  the  work  when  it  is 
properly  retained.  Your  chicks  will  then  be  free  from  lice  and 
may  be  raised  in  our  brooder  without  artificial  heat. 

We  once  shipped  by  express  to  a  point  three  hundred  miles 
away,  eggs  that  were  about  to  hatch.  They  were  billed  out 
eggs,  and  received  as  chickens  with  a  one  hundred  per  cent, 
hatch.  The  next  week  we  received  a  letter  from  the  party 
receiving  the  chicks  saying  that  he  had  received  a  box  containing 


25 


fourteen  fine  chickens  and  some  egg  shells.  These  eggs  had  been 
properly  incubated  and  would  have  hatched  if  they  had  been  put 
on  the  floor  and  covered  with  a  blanket,  and  kept  warm. 

A  TRICK  OF  THE  TRADE. 


How  to  Save  Fully  Matured  Chicks  That  Could  Not  Hatch 
Without   Help. 

At  least  one-third  of  all  the  chickens  that  are  fully  developed 
at  the  hatching  time  are  unable  to  free  themselves  from  the  shell, 
and  many  times  unable  to  make  the  first  little  opening.  When 
they  have  been  properly  developed  up  to  hatching  time  they  can 
all  be  saved.  In  proportion  to  the  number  set  there  are  just  as 
many  lost  under  hens  as  in  incubators. 

When  the  time  has  come  for  the  egg  to  hatch,  and  there 
is  no  sign  of  life,  hold  the  egg  to  the  light  and  find  the  air  cell. 
With  a  sharp-pointed  knife-blade  make  an  opening  about  the 
center  of  the  air  cell.  By  holding  your  thumb  firmly  against 
the  side  of  the  knife,  near  the  point  of  the  blade  you  will  avoid 
cutting  deep.  Make  the  opening  the  size  of  a  dime  and  you 
can  then  see  the  condition  of  the  chick.  ^  If  you  find  that  its 
beak  is  through  the  inner  lining  of  the  egg,  take  a  pin  with  the 
point  upward  and  the  head  next  the  egg  and,  holding  it  at  a  right 
angle  with  the  egg  carefully  chip  out  the  shell  around  the  large 
end  of  the  egg  commencing  at  the  chick's  beak.  By  being  a 
little  careful  the  shell  may  easily  be  chipped  so  it  will  disconnect 
the  large  end  of  the  shell  without  injuring  the  membrane  or 
causing  it  to  bleed. 

Then  roll  the  egg  up  in  a  moistened  strip  of  woolen  cloth 
three  inches  wide  by  about  ten  inches  long,  the  ends  left  open  so 
the  chick  can  get  out  without  assistance  and  lay  the  egg  back 
in  the  machine  to  hatch.  Use  hot  water  for  moistening  the 
cloth. 

In  the  majority  of  cases  it  would  not  be  necessary  to  break 
the  shell  loose  with  the  pin  as  described,  as  the  small  opening  in 
large  end  of  the  egg  furnishes  a  liberal  supply  of  air  and  the  chicks 
that  would  not  hatch  otherwise  come  out  nicely,"  without  the 
danger  of  smothering  just  as  they  are  about  to  leave  the  shell,  as 
the  woolen  cloth  causes  the  chick  to  sweat  and  softens  the  lining 
of  the  egg  so  the  chick  can  make  its  escape  without  any  great 
effort. 

Our  first  experiment  with  the  above  plan  was  made  several 
years  ago  after  we  had  bought  two  sittings  of  expensive  eggs. 


26 

When  the  time  came  for  the  eggs  to  hatch  we  found  pnly  ten  eggs 
containing  chickens,  eight  of  these  hatched  out  nicely  but  the 
other  two  could  not  crack  the  shell.  The  two  eggs  not  hatched 
represented  to  us  $4.2(),^worth  making  an  effort  to  saxe.  We 
opened  the  large  end  and  found  the  beaks  open  and  the  chickens 
gasping  for  breath  in  their  effort  to  crack  the  shell.  After  watch- 
ing them  a  few  minutes  their  beaks  closed,  and  the  exhaustion 
caused  by  breathing  was  not  so  great.  They  were  rolled  up  in 
cloth  as  above  described  and  hatched  out  as  bright  and  lively  as 
the  rest,  and  all  of  the  ten  chicks  were  raised  to  maturitv. 

WHY  EXCESSIVE  OR  LIMITED  MOISTURE  INJURES 
THE    HATCH. 

We  find  many  articles  written  on  the  moisture  question. 
Reports  from  experimental  stations,  where  elaborate  tests  have 
been  made  to  ascertain  the  necessary  amount  of  moisture  to  be 
furnished  the  egg  during  incubation  in  order  to  get  the  best 
results,  fail  to  state  the  reasons  why  too  much  moisture  or  in- 
sufficient moisture  would  be  injurious  to  a  successful  hatch. 

In  our  experience  we  find  that  the  more  moisture  retained 
in  the  eggs  the  better  will  be  the  chickens,  and  if  it  is  necessary 
to  supply  moisture  the  chickens  will  not  be  as  large,  neither  will 
they  have  as  much  strength  as  otherwise. 

The  amount  of  moisture  retained  or  supplied  to  the  eggs 
affects  the  size  of  the  chicken,  and  when  there  is  too  much  mois- 
ture, which  is  sometimes  the  case  with  sitting  hens  when  on  damp 
ground,  the  chickens  will  be  too  large  for  the  egg  and  will  be 
cramped  for  room,  making  it  impossible  for  them  to  escape. 
They  may  sometimes  have  room  enough  to  crack  the  shell, 
but  this  alone  will  not  let  the  chickens  out.  After  the  shell  is 
first  cracked  the  chicken  remains  very  quiet  while  absorbing  the 
yolk,  which  requires  from  ten  to  twenty  hours.  Then  it  is 
necessary  to  make  a  complete  turn  in  the  egg,  and  by  its  efforts 
to  turn,  its  beak  is  forced  through  the  shell  and  when  the  com- 
plete circle  has  been  made  the  end  of  the  shell  will  be  entirely 
cut  off.  When  the  chick  is  too  large  it  is  bound  by  its  size,  and 
cannot  move  around  the  regular  course,  so  will  smother  or  die 
in  its  efforts  to  move. 

In  many  instances  the  chicken  is  too  large  to  make  the  first 
small  opening  on  account  of  not  having  room  to  move  either  legs 
or  beak,  for  the  movement  of  the  legs,  when  there  is  room,  causes 
a  pressure  on  the  shell  by  the  beak  which  makes  an  opening. 

While  a  very  small  chicken,  or  one  incubated  with  excessive 


27 

evaporation  of  the  eggs,  is  more  likely  to  hatch  than  one  that  is 
too  large,  it  very  often  happens  that  the  chick  lacks  bulk,  and, 
although  it  can  make  its  turn  in  the  egg  and  sometimes  does  so 
several  times  in  an  effort  to  find  the  way  out,  the  shell  will  re- 
main solid  and  the  chicken  will  perish.  It  may  kick  and  move 
around  all  it  possibly  can  and  yet  be  unable  to  bring  the  necessary 
pressure  against  the  shell  to  niake  the  first  small  opening. 

Very  large  chickens  and  even  those  too  large  to  make  their 
escape  are  the  best  and  can  be  raised  with  little  effort  as  compared 
with  those  having  been  dwarfed  by  evaporation. 

Judging  by  the  letters  coming  into  our  office  daily  we  think 
there  will  be  over  a  million  chickens  saved  during  the  season  by 
applying  "a  trick  of  the  trade."  Many  operators  are  saving 
from  twenty  to  fifty  chickens  from  each  machine  operated. 

The  dwarfed  chickens  are  the  ones  more  likely  to  have 
bowel  trouble,  although  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  trouble  is 
caused  by  the  fact  that  the  hens  were  not  properly  fed  when 
producing  the  eggs,  and  the  bowel  trouble  was  hatched  with 
the  chickens. 

BROODING  THE  CHICKS 

Chickens  may  be  raised  and  kept  in  perfect  condition  with- 
out supplying  artifical  heat. 

After  carefully  testing  our  new  brooder  without  artificial 
heat  the  old  style  brooder  will  be  a  thing  of  the  past.  (See 
Brooding  without  heat.) 

But  if  for  any  reason  you  wish  to  use  a  heated  brooder,  the 
chickens,  as  soon  as  they  are  out  of  the  shell,  or  at  least  a  dozen 
or  more  of  them,  should  be  removed  to  the  brooder  having  a 
temperature  sufficient  to  keep  them  comfortable  without  crowd- 
ing. It  is  not  necessary  to  use  a  thermometer  in  the  brooder, 
as  it  is  better  to  watch  the  condition  of  the  chickens  and  regulate 
the  heat  to  make  them  comtortable.  Many  times  when  govern- 
ing the  heat  of  the  brooder  by  fixed  rules  the  chicks  will  be  over- 
heated or  possibly  chilled.  Just  a  glance  at  them  should  tell 
one  whether  they  are  comfortable,  and  when  guided  in  this 
manner  the  results  will  be  more  satisfactory. 

Chicks  removed  to  the  brooder  while  very  young  learn  the 
ways  of  the  brooder  more  quickly  than  the  ones  that  are  left  in 
the  hatcher  for  a  day  or  two. 

The  last  efforts  to  free  themselves  from  the  shell  is  a  greater 
tax  on  their  systems  than  at  any  other  time  during  incubation. 
Absorbing  the  yolk  of  the  egg  is  the  next  to  the  last  work  ac- 


28 

complished  by  them  before  leaving  the  shell.  By  this  act  they 
are  provided  with  food  and  should  sleep  quietly  during  the  next 
twelve  hours. 

Large  brooders  are  a  mistake,  no  matter  how  many  chickens 
are  to  be  hatched  or  raised.  It  is  better  to  keep  them  in  small 
flocks,  not  over  fifty  the  first  week  and  twenty-five  will  do  better 
than  more.  The  second  week  they  should  be  divided  into  flocks 
of  twenty  to  twenty-five,  and  when  forcing  a  few  fine  specimens 
for  the  show  or  some  special  work  they  should  again  be  divided, 
leaving  but  ten  in  one  brooder. 

When  there  is  much  more  room  in  the  brooder  than  the 
chicks  fill  there  is  always  circulating  air  that  is  a  serious  ob- 
jection to  the  youngsters'  welfare. 

When  artificial  heat  is  used  in  the  brooder  it  is  just  as  im- 
portant to  have  the  heat  automatically  regulated  as  to  regulate 
the  temperature  of  the  incubator. 

THE  FIRST  FOOD. 

After  the  chickens  have  been  properly  hatched,  the  success 
in  raising  them  depends  largely  upon  the  care  they  get  during 
the  first  week. 

Nearly  all  writers  say,  "starve  the  chickens  after  they  are 
hatched,"  some  going  as  far  as  seventy-two  hours  before  giving 
any  food.  That  is  not  nature's  way  nor  is  it  the  best  way.  As 
soon  as  the  chickens  are  old  enough  to  run  about  and  pick  for 
food  they  should  be  given  something  nourishing  to  eat,  and  also 
something  to  drink. 

It  is  generally  claimed  that  if  chickens  are  fed  before  they 
have  digested  the  absorbed  yolk  of  the  egg,  the  food  given  will 
be  used  in  place  of  the  yolk,  and  the  chicken  will  run  down  and 
finally  die.  The  facts  are,  that  when  the  yolk  is  not  digested, 
it  has  been  baked  or  hardened  by  improper  incubation,  especially 
over-heating  leaving  it  in  a  hardened  state  causing  it  to  become 
indigestible.  Although  the  chicken  will  sometimes  live  six  or  eight 
weeks,  it  will  dwindle  and  die  in  spite  of  all  that  can  be  done  for 
it.  The  yolk  must  remain  in  a  liquid  form  until  it  has  been  en- 
tirely used  to  build  up  the  system  of  the  chick.  It  matters  not 
how  much  food  has  been  given  to  the  chicken,  or  how  soon  it  was 
fed,  the  yolk  will  be  used,  if  not  rendered  indigestible  before  being 
absorbed. 

The  first  food  should  be  bread  crumbs  slightly  moistened 
with  sweet  milk.  A  very  little  at  a  time  should  be  sprinkled 
around  several  times  during  the  day  where  the  chicks  run,  or 


29 

about  every  two  hours  for  best  results.  The  bread  used  should 
be  thoroughly  baked  and  dried,  so  it  will  roll  fine.  Hard-boiled 
eggs  rolled  in  the  dry  crumbs  will  add  variety  to  the  ration  and  help 
to  give  them  a  good  start  in  life.  Dry  oatmeal  or  oat  flakes  should 
be  given  as  soon  as  they  will  eat  them,  and  should  be  fed  once 
each  day  during  the  first  three  weeks.  Both  skim  milk  and  water 
are  placed  before  them  as  soon  as  they  will  drink.  While  it  is 
possible  to  raise  chickens  without  anything  to  drink  during  the 
first  week  they  do  better  when  given  both  milk  and  water. 
After  the  first  day  they  are  given  a  very  little  Baby  Chick  Food 
twice  daily,  and  the  amount  is  increased  each  day  until  they  are 
given  all  they  will  eat  twice  daily  for  the  first  three  weeks,  and 
longer  if  you  can  afford  it.  Dry  coarse  wheat  bran  is  placed  be- 
fore them  the  first  day,  in  little  boxes  about  one  inch  deep  and 
is  kept  before  them  constantly  at  all  times,  and  at  all  ages  of 
the  poultry.  When  they  are  educated  from  the  first  to  eat  bran, 
it  is  astonishing  to  see  the  amount  they  will  consume.  If  they 
are  out  of  the  bran  for  half  a  day  and  then  given  a  fresh  supply 
they  will  leave  all  other  food  and  eat  the  bran.  Half  the  bulk 
of  food  used  for  our  poultry  at  all  ages  is  dry  wheat  bran. 

Fine  grit,  sand  or  fine  gravel  is  given  them  from  the  first, 
although  fed  very  sparingly  the  first  day,  or  until  the  chickens 
know  its  value.  If  given  all  they  will  eat  at  first,  they  will 
sometimes  eat  too  much,  but  are  not  so  much  inclined  to  do  so 
when  fed  very  young. 

Finely  cut  clover  is  used  for  litter  and  a  large  portion  of  it 
is  eaten  by  the  chickens.  It  adds  bulk  to  the  food  and  helps 
to  expand  the  crop,  giving  it  a  large  capacity  which  is  necessary 
to  get  the  best  results. 

In  feeding  the  sweet  milk  it  is  necessary  to  give  it  in  a  way 
that  will  prevent  the  chickens  from  getting  it  on  them.  We  use 
the  Cycle  chick  servers  and  find  them  very  satisfactory. 

Raw,  lean  meat  is  very  fine  food  when  it  can  be  obtained 
without  costing  too  much,  although  our  work  is  very  successful 
without  it.  It  was  not  used  this  season  in  our  home  yard,  where 
we  raised  so  many  chickens  without  loss  and  in  perfect  condition. 

FEEDING  THE  FIRST  THREE  WEEKS. 

The  chicken  that  is  properly  handled  the  first  week  of  its 
life  is  practically  half  raised.  Like  incubation,  if  the  first  week's 
work  is  properly  done,  the  results  are  reasonably  sure  and  the 
work  easy;  if  not,  the  proper  conditions  may  never  be  expected 
to  exist  with  a  lot  of  chickens  that  have  been  improperly  handled 
the  first  week. 


30 

After  the  first  week  the  bread  and  milk  may  be  discontinued, 
although  one  feeding  a  day  would  be  an  advantage  where  the 
supply  may  be  had  at  not  too  great  an  expense. 

A  part  of  the  coop  should  have  an  earth  bottom,  and  if  the 
ground  is  hard  and  stony,  it  should  be  dug  up  and  removed,  and 
good  garden  soil  and  sand  put  in,  to  the  depth  of  eight  inches, 
and  frequently  spaded,  so  that  the  chicks  can  easily  scratch  for 
the  grain  you  bury.  It  will  aid  digestion  and  strengthen  the  legs, 
which  will  be  necessary  to  keep  pace  with  the  rapidly  increasing 
weight  of  the  body.  Some  of  the  chick  food  should  be  thorough- 
ly mixed  in  the  soil  every  day.  It  will  keep  them  hustling  to 
find  the  little  seeds  and  finely  cracked  grain. 

Never  attempt  to  raise  chickens  in  cellars,  or  any  place  be- 
low the  surface  of  the  ground. 

FEEDING  FROM  THREE  TO  EIGHT  WEEKS. 

After  they  are  three  weeks  old,  all  chickens  that  are  intended 
for  breeders  or  to  stock  the  egg  farm  should  be  fed  to  produce 
bone  and  muscle  rather  than  flesh.  They  take  on  fat  readily 
during  the  next  few  weeks,  and  unless  properly  fed  are  likely  to 
get  too  heavy  for  their  legs,  and  also  to  be  troubled  with  indi- 
gestion, either  of  which  will  retard  the  growth  and  make  seconds 
of  chickens  that  should  stand  in  the  front  rank. 

After  they  are  three  weeks  old  they  should  be  fed  as  many 
kinds  of  small  grain  as  you  can  get,  including  cracked  corn  for 
the  night  food.  This  should  be  given  in  the  morning  and  at 
night.  During  the  day  they  have  all  the  dry  wheat  bran  they 
will  eat,  and  a  very  little  chick  food  is  raked  in  the  run  to  keep 
them  busy.  Green  food  or  finely  cut  clover  is  supplied  every 
day.  A  very  little  meat  scraps  or  fresh  lean  meat  is  excellent, 
but  not  altogether  necessary,  unless  in  case  of  weakness  in  the 
parent  stock  caused  by  insufficient  or  improper  feeding.  When 
the  meat  is  not  supplied,  either  sweet  or  granulated  milk  should 
be  fed.  Unless  there  is  an  abundant  supply  of  natural  grit, 
the  manufactured  kind  should  be  fed  liberally. 

FROM  EIGHT  WEEKS  TO  MATURITY. 

When  the  chicken  has  been  properly  handled  until  eight 
weeks  old,  its  whole  nature  soon  changes  and  the  food  given  all 
goes  to  build  up  the  frame.  At  this  age  they  will  stand  very 
heavy  feeding  without  injury,  or  adding  to  their  flesh ;  in  fact,  it 


31 

is  very  difficult  to  keep  them  in  good  condition  for  market  or 
table,  as  the  tendency  is  to  grow  lean  and  lank  rather  than  fat. 

In  order  to  keep  up  the  rapid  pace  of  de\elopment  it  is 
necessary  to  tempt  their  appetite  by  feeding  moistened  mash  for 
the  morning  food  and  also  late  at  night  so  that  there  will  be  some 
for  the  early  morning  before  the  attendant  has  put  in  an  appear- 
ance. 

The  mash  should  consist  of  equal  parts  by  measure  of 
ground  oats,  wheat  bran  and  corn  meal,  and  at  least  as  much 
cut  clover,  alfalfa,  or  lawn  clippings  as  all  these  others,  and  as 
much  more  as  you  can  induce  the  chicks  to  eat.  The  whole 
should  be  moistened  with  milk  and  seasoned  with  a  little  salt. 
Water  may  be  used  instead  of  milk,  but  milk  is  better.  We  use 
sweet  milk  in  winter  and  sour  in  summer.  When  the  milk  can- 
not be  had,  some  granulated  milk,  fresh  lean  meat,  or  meat 
scraps  should  be  fed  in  small  quantities. 

At  noon  they  are  given  whole  oats  that  have  been  covered 
with  water  since  morning.  After  the  first  week  the  oats  may  be 
fed  dry. 

Dry  wheat  bran,  green  food  or  cut  clover  must  be  fed  to 
furnish  the  bulk  and  keep  them  in  perfect  condition. 

Cracked  corn  is  fed  late  in  the  afternoon  before  giving  the 
mash  for  night.  In  this  way  they  are  induced  to  eat  more  than 
they  otherwise  would,  should  the  mash  and  cracked  corn  be  fed 
at  the  same  time. 

The  success  of  the  work  depends  entirely  upon  the  amount  of 
food  they  can  be  made  to  consume  and  digest.  Besides  the 
quick  development,  we  get  hens  better  adapted  for  large  egg 
yields,  as  all  food  not  required  to  keep  up  the  system  must  be 
turned  into  eggs,  and  the  amount  of  the  egg  yield  depends  en- 
tirely upon  the  amount  of  food  the  hen  can  be  made  to  consume. 

FEEDING  FOR  EARLY  MATURITY. 

The  pullets  are  now  three  months  old,  and  have  been  fed  in 
a  manner  to  develop  the  frame  with  large  strong  bones,  lacking 
only  the  filling  out  to  make  perfectly  matured  birds. 

Our  aim  now  is  to  feed  all  we  can  get  them  to  eat  of  as  many 
kinds  of  food  as  we  can  get ,  consisting  of  whole  grain ,  ground  food , 
shell,  green  food,  etc.  The  time  of  the  day  for  feeding  the  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  food  does  not  matter  very  much  if  they  get  whole 
grain  at  night  with  a  liberal  amount  of  corn.  To  determine  when 
they  are  properly  fed,  the  condition  of  the  crop  at  roosting  time 
and  in  the  early  morning  will  tell  the  story.     When  ready  for 


32 

the  roosts  the  crops  should  be  completely  filled  and  rather  hard, 
and  in  the  morning  they  should  be  comparatively  empty. 

When  the  crops  are  not  completely  filled  at  night  there  is 
something  lacking  in  the  bill  of  fare  that  they  need,  and  they 
should  be  tried  with  a  little  of  everything  we  have  to  feed  until 
they  get  what  they  are  so  much  in  need  of.  The  bulky  food  should 
be  given  largely  during  the  early  part  of  the  day,  as  it  is  easily 
digested,  giving  them  a  good  appetite  for  the  more  substantial 
food  later  in  the  day. 

When  food  is  found  in  the  crop  in  the  early  morning  there 
should  be  more  gravel  or  grit  fed,  and  for  this  we  prefer  ground 
oyster  or  clam  shells  in  addition  to  the  gravel,  as  it  supplies  lime 
besides  digestive  material  in  larger  quantities  than  obtained 
from  the  crushed  stone,  marble,  or  granite.  When  this  fails  to 
bring  the  desired  results,  less  solid  food  should  be  given  them, 
and  more  of  the  bulky  food.  Cases  of  indigestion  are  seldom 
found  when  they  have  access  to  the  dry  wheat  bran. 

The  wet  mash  should  be  fed  at  least  once  each  day,  either 
in  the  morning  or  at  noon,  consisting  of  equal  parts  by  measure 
of  ground  oats,  wheat  bran,  corn  meal,  and  as  much  clover  or 
alfalfa  as  all  these  other  things.  Skim  milk  may  be  used  to 
moisten  this  mixture,  or  w^ater,  if  milk  cannot  be  had. 

The  mash  should  be  seasoned  with  a  little  salt  and  a  very 
littVe  pepper,  either  black  or  red,  but  not  more  than  would  be 
used  to  season  food  for  the  table. 

Dry  wheat  bran  and  whole  oats  should  be  kept  before  them 
all  of  the  time. 

One  of  the  most  dif^cult  tasks  is  grading  the  chickens,  with- 
out discarding  valuable  birds,  and  doing  the  work  in  time  to  fit 
the  seconds  for  two-pound  broilers  when  but  eight  weeks  old. 

The  color  of  the  eyes  sometimes  changes  when  they  are  from 
eight  to  ten  weeks  old,  so  it  will  be  necessary  to  do  some  guess 
work  in  grading  three-weeks-old  chickens  regarding  the  color 
of  the  eyes.  The  ear-lobes  also  change  and  take  on  the  final 
color  when  from  eight  to  ten  weeks  old. 

The  color  of  the  feathers  on  buff  and  white  breeds  should 
be  good  when  the  chicken  is  small  and  the  feathers  just  starting 
although  there  is  often  a  slight  change  in  color  when  they  take 
on  their  adult  plumage.  The  best  specimens  may  be  selected 
when  they  are  but  three  wrecks  old.  The  legs  and  beak  change 
some  after  this  age,  still  they  are  beginning  to  take  on  the  final 
color,  and  a  very  fair  conclusion  may  be  arrived  at. 

It  is  not  difificult  after  a  little  practice  to  tell  about  what 
the  comb  willbe,andall  birds  not  strictly  up  to  your  expectations 
in  that  respect  should  be  turned  into  broilers,  excepting  the  early 


35 

pullets  that  are  bred  for  eggs,  as  they  should  be  retained  regard- 
less of  the  required  standard  qualities. 

The  utility  birds  are  more  easily  selected  at  a  very  young 
age  as  those  looking  the  brightest  and  the  ones  maturing  in  ad- 
vance of  others  of  the  same  age  will  always  make  the  hustling 
hens.  They  should  have  a  bright  keen  eye,  be  quick  in  motion,  and 
the  first  to  reach  the  feed  when  it  is  given  them.  These  will  be 
the  last  to  go  to  the  roost  at  night,  and  the  first  to  put  in  an  ap- 
pearance in  the  miorning. 

TWO  POUND  BROILERS  IN  EIGHT  WEEKS. 

The  care  of  the  chickens  during  the  first  three  weeks  is 
the  same  as  before  described,  and  the  work  of  finishing  up  the 
broilers  is  accomplished  in  the  following  fi\e  weeks. 

After  the  first  three  weeks  they  should  be  fed  little  and  often, 
five  times  daih' to  get  the  best  development  in  the  shortest  space 
of  time. 

All  food  should  be  moistened  with  miilk  excepting  the  crack- 
ed corn  fed  at  night  and  the  dry  wheat  bran  that  is  constantly 
before  them.  Sweet  milk  to  drink,  as  well  as  water,  should  be 
given  to  get  the  best  quality  and  largest  quantity  at  the  proper 
age. 

The  mash  at  first  should  consist  of  equal  parts,  by  measure 
of  corn  meal,  ground  oats  and  wheat  bran,  and  as  much  clover 
or  alfalfa  as  they  can  be  induced  to  eat.  When  they  are  four 
weeks  old  gradually  change  the  bran  for  middlings,  until  one- 
sixth  of  the  mash  is  composed  of  middlings;  when  six  weeks  old 
gradually  increase  the  amount  of  corn  meal  and  add  a  little  lin- 
seed meal  to  the  mixture 

All  moistened  food  for  chicks  or  fowls  should  be  slightly 
salted  as  for  table  use. 

The  chicks  should  be  provided  with  cut  clover,  or  other  green 
food  in  addition  to  what  is  in  the  mash. 

When  forcing  for  heavy  weight  they  must  be  kept  on  the 
ground  to  prevent  leg  weakness.  The  ground  should  be  spaded 
every  day  and  not  allowed  to  get  wet  from  a  soaking  rain. 

When  the  feeding  has  been  properly  handled  the  crops  should 
be  full  at  night.  If  they  are  not  full,  and  the  chicks  are  not  in- 
clined to  fill  them,  a  little  less  food  should  be  given  during  the 
day,  and  gradually  increased  until  the  last  feeding  time  at  night. 

When  broilers  are  allowed  to  roam  the  fields  they  develop 
their  leg  muscles,  which  become  tough  and  their  flesh  will  be 
nearly  as  hard  as  that  of  older  fowls.     A  broiler  raised  bv    our 


56 

system  is  as  tender  as  a  squab,  and  the  quality  cannot  be  excelled . 
In  a  few  instances  we  have  raised  broilers  weighing  a  little 
over  two  pounds  in  seven  weeks. 

A  BROILER  FARM  ON  A  CITY  LOT. 

In  answer  to  many  inquiries  regarding  the  possibilities  of 
the  broiler  business  on  a  city  lot,  we  are  herewith  giving  figures 
made  from  the  results  of  tests  made  repeatedly,  to  show 
what  may  be  accomplished  on  a  city  lot,  fifty  feet  square, 
containing  2,500  square  feet  of  ground. 

These  figures  may  appear  exaggerated  to  many;  still  they 
are  not  overestimated,  as  we  do  not  allow  as  much  space  here  in 
actual  practice.  However,  it  is  best  to  allow  this  space  for  the 
alleys  on  account  of  saving  labor  in  the  care  of  growing  chickens. 
It  is  also  possible  to  increase  the  number  of  finished  broilers 
from  twenty  to  twenty-five  to  the  coop,  adding  twenty  per  cent, 
to  gross  receipts.  In  making  the  estimate,  liberal  allowance 
has  been  made  for  mortality,  allowing  twenty  per  cent,  loss, 
while  in  actual  practice  here,  and  also  in  many  other  places  where 
this  system  is  being  used,  the  mortality  is  less  than  five  per  cent. 

The  writer  had  the  pleasure,  recently,  of  showing  Mr.  J. 
W.  Froley,  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  our  small  city- 
plant  and  the  broilers  being  raised  by  the  new  system.  In  one 
section  of  the  chicken  department  we  had  a  little  over  200  pounds 
of  broilers,  and  the  total  amount  of  ground  occupied  with  the 
coops  and  walk  is  twenty  feet  long  by  five  feet  wide.  These 
chickens,  how^ever,  are  past  the  broiler  age,  as  they  will  now  weigh 
a  little  over  four  pounds  each,  and  the  figures  given  are  simply 
to  show  that  former  estimates  as  to  the  amount  of  poultry  that 
can  be  successfully  raised  on  a  given  space  of  ground  are  far  from 
reaching  the  limit  of  possibilities. 

All  of  the  work  necessary  could  be  accomplished  by  one  man, 
and  we  are  not  sure  but  one  good,  active  woman  would  have  still 
better  success,  as  women  are  more  likely  to  look  after  the  little 
details,  which  are  very  essential  during  the  first  week  of  the  chick- 
en's life.  With  the  help  of  a  man  one  day  in  the  week  to  do 
some  heavy  work  and  cleaning,  it  would  not  be  very  difficult  to 
handle  the  plant,  although  very  confining,  possibly  more  so  than 
the  average  person  would  care  to  undertake. 

It  would  also  be  possible  for  a  very  strong,  active  man  to 
care  for  this  plant  so  as  to  produce  the  eggs  necessary  to  use  from 
which  to  hatch  the  chickens,  and  one  is  more  likely  to  succeed 
when  getting  eggs  from  his  own  hens  than  where  it  is  necessary 


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CZ]  CZD  LZJ  EZ]  EI]  LU 

[HI  [Z]  □  Q  J  LZ]  [z:] 

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Ground  plan  of  a  city  lot,  showing  the  arrangement  of  sixty  Philo  System 

coops  and  walks,  where  $1,450.00  worth  of  broilers  can  be  raised 

in  eight  months  on  a  city  lot  fifty  feet  square. 


to  purchase  the  eggs.  However,  it  is  possible  to  arrange  with 
some  good,  reliable  farmer  to  raise  the  eggs,  even  though  it  may 
be  necessary  to  furnish  him  with  the  kind  of  breeding  stock 
desired  for  broilers.  We  sometimes  furnish  the  breeders  and  pay 
the  farmer  a  little  above  the  market  price  for  the  eggs  produced 
by  our  hens,  with  the  understanding  that  they  are  to  be  fed  ex- 
actly as_we  feed  to  produce  eggs  capable  of  hatching  chickens 
which  will  develop  into  finished  broilers  in  the  shortest  space  of 
time. 


38 

Our  average  hatches  have  been  better  than  85  per  cent, 
during  the  past  several  years;  still  in  making  the  figures  we  only 
estimate  on  50  per  cent,  hatches,  making  it  necessary  to  set  50 
eggs  per  day  to  hatch  25  chickens  to  keep  all  coops  filled.  After 
the  first  chickens  hatched  are  two  months  old,  twenty  or  more 
two-pound  broilers  would  be  ready  for  market  daily.  This 
would  allow  for  twenty  per  cent,  mortality,  which  is  greatly  in 
excess  of  our  losses,  and  also  make  a  daily  output  of  forty  pounds 
of  finished  broilers  including  Sundays;  although  the  Sunday 
chickens  should  be  sold  on  the  following  Monday,  making  the 
amount  80  pounds  in  place  of  40  pounds  as  on  all  other  days. 

Commencing  to  hatch  chickens  by  January  1st,  the  first 
large  broilers  would  be  ready  to  market  about  the  first  of  March. 
In  many  markets  there  is  a  demand  for  broilers  about  half  the 
weight  of  the  two-months  broilers,  and  many  could  be  sold  by 
February  1.5th,  bringing  as  much  per  chicken  as  they  would  when 
fully  two  months  old.  While  this  would  add  to  the  income  of 
the  plant,  we  will  omit  it  from  the  estimate  as  the  returns  made 
from  the  regular  line  will  be  in  excess  of  former  estimates,  and 
will  be  doubted  by  many  who  do  not  know  the  possibilities.  A 
visit  to  our  small  city  plant  here  has  convinced  the  most  skeptical 
that  we  can  do  all  we  are  claiming,  and  are  now  doing  a  little  more. 

During  March  and  April  20  broilers  per  day  can  be  marketed 
at  50  cents  each.  In  May  and  June  they  should  bring  40  cents 
each,  and  in  July  and  August  about  30  cents,  making  a  total 
income  auring  the  six  months  of  $1,450.00.  At  the  very  high 
price  of  all  kinds  of  grain  and  the  necessary  food  the  cost  of  feed- 
ing, and  eggs  for  incubation^  should  not  exceed  $576.00,  leaving 
a  balance  of  $874.00  net  profit.  This  is  not  all,  as  600  capons 
could  be  matured  in  the  same  plant,  using  the  cockerels  in  the 
last  lot  of  broilers  for  capons,  which  should  be  developed  to  weigh 
from  eight  tc  twelve  pounds  by  January  1st,  or  by  the  time  of 
starting  the  broilers  tor  another  year.  This  should  add  at  least 
$300.00  to  the  profits  of  the  plant. 

In  our  plant  here  we  matured  ten  of  the  late  hatched  pullets 
in  each  of  the  brooder  coops,  and  many  of  them  were  laying  in 
coops  during  the  coldest  winter  weather. 

Several  tons  of  the  best  f  ertilizei  would  be  made  which  should 
also  add  much  to  the  income  of  the  plant. 

Nowabou  th(  Investment.  We  will  take  it  for  granted  that 
the  party  operating  the  plant  owns  a  plot  of  ground  fifty  feet 
square,  or  that  this  small  space  is  included  when  renting  a  house 
in  which  to  live.  However,  extra  rent  could  be  paid  and  there 
would  still  be  left  more  clear  money  than  99  per  cent,  of  the  labor- 
ing oeople  make. 


33 

The  material  for  the  brooder  coops  and  small  boxes  for 
brooders  could  be  bought  for  about  $350.00,  and  21  cycle  Hatchers 
at  wholesale  prices  for  $84,00.  In  addition  to  these  amounts 
$80.00  would  be  required  for  food  until  the  firsr  sales  were  made, 
making  a  total  investment  of  $514.00.  This  is  a  comparatively 
small  amount  of  capital  to  invest  in  a  plant  that  promises  so 
well  in  returns. 

With  the  former  ways  of  handling  the  business  there  is  a 
constant  danger  of  loss  by  fire  and  of  injuring  the  chickens  by 
lamps,  which  sometimes  get  unreliable.  By  the  improved  meth- 
od all  the  danger  from  fire  is  eliminated,  besides  the  loss  caused 
so  many  times  from  hawks,  cats,  dogs  and  other  prowling  animals. 

Just  a  word  of  caution  in  conclusion,  as  we  do  not  wish  an^-- 
one  to  think  such  returns  would  be  possible  without  some  ex- 
perience or  knowledge  of  the  work.  Although  there  is  not  the 
first  thing  that  any  ordinaril}/  bright  person  could  not  do  after  a 
little  experience,  it  would  be  very  unwise  to  attempt  the  work  in 
a  large  way  without  first  mastering  the  little  details  by  putting 
into  actual  test  the  smallest  unit  of  this  plant.  If,  by  its  use, 
you  can  accomplish  very  nearly  as  good  results  as  we  are  getting 
here,  producing  forty  pounds  of  broilers  in  each  single  coop  in 
eight  weeks,  you  will  not  have  any  difficulty  in  developing 
the  plant  to  the  full  capacity  and  do  even  better  than  we  are  now 
doing. 

HOW  TO  GET  LARGE  EGG  YIELDS. 

In  the  directions  for  the  care  of  breeding  stock  the  essential 
points  for  getting  large  egg  yields  are  well  covered.  Larger 
yields  may  be  had  by  increasing  the  amount  of  meat  scraps  and 
providing  sweet  milk  after  the  cream  has  been  removed.  The 
milk  will  not  injure  the  quality  of  the  eggs  for  incubation,  neither 
will  fresh,  lean  meat.  Commercial  meat  scraps  when  not  com- 
posed entirely  of  lean  meat  will  injure  the  quality  of  eggs  for 
hatching  when  fed  in  quantities  to  get  the  largest  egg  yield. 

The  best  egg  yields  are  obtained  where  the  hens  have  an 
abundance  of  bulky  food,  clean  water,  oyster  shells,  sweet  milk 
freshlean  meat,  a  large  variety  of  grain,  dry  wheat  bran,  and  a 
comfortable  roosting  place.  Never  feed  laying  hens  by  measure. 
Give  them  all  they  will  eat  or  you  cannot  get  the  best  egg  yield. 
See  that  the  hens  are  provided  with  all  the  above,  and  your  egg 
basket  will  be  well  filled. 


40 

HOW    TO    GET    EGGS    WHEN    PRICES    ARE     HIGH. 

Change  the  Season  for  Hatching  and  the  Hens  Will  Molt 

in  the  Spring  as  Naturally  as  They  Now  Molt 

in  the  Fall. 

Poultry  keepers  who  are  satisfied  to  handle  poultry  just  as 
their  grandfathers  handled  it  must  be  content  when  selling  eggs 
at  the  lowest  market  price.  However,  this  is  not  necessary,  as 
recent  discoveries  are  changing  conditions  which  cause  the  hens 
to  be  more  productive  in  the  early  winter  and  molt  during  the 
spring  months. 

We  all  know  that  hens  as  commonly  bred  are  more  pro- 
ductive in  the  spring  and  early  summer  than  at  any  other  time 
of  year.  This  is  the  natural  breeding  season,  and  they  lay  dur- 
ing these  months  just  because  their  mothers  did,  making  it 
difficult  to  convince  them  that  the  time  they  should  do  their 
best  is  during  the  fall  and  winter  months. 

It  would  probably  be  safe  to  estimate  that  99  per  cent  of 
the  hens  raised  for  laying  are  hatched  during  May  and  June, 
and  our  plan  is  to  hatch  them  at  the  season  of  the  year  we  wish 
them  to  be  most  productive. 

It  requires  some  little  effort  and  quite  a  bit  of  skill  to  bring 
about  the  changes  necessary  to  cause  the  breeding  fowls  to 
produce  fertile,  hatchable  eggs  at  this  unnatural  time,  and  the 
first  efTorts  in  this  direction  are  the  least  successful.  Each  succeed- 
ing year  shows  a  decided  improvement  caused  by  using  only  the 
early-hatched  cockerels  and  pullets  for  the  breeders,  and  being 
particular  to  carry  at  least  two  lines  of  fowls  not  nearly  related, 
that  out-crosses  may  be  had  each  season  without  the  necessity 
of  purchasing  breeders  which  have  not  been  hatched  during  the 
early  winter.  The  third  season  will  show  a  marked  degree  of 
improvement,  and  hatchable  eggs  will  be  more  easily  obtained. 

Should  every  farmer  and  poultryman  adopt  the  plan,  the 
time  for  high-priced  eggs  would  soon  be  changed  to  the  spring 
months,  as  every  one  would  have  eggs  to  sell  during  the  winter. 
This,  however,  will  never  happen,  as  there  are  but  few  people  who 
would  ever  believe  in  the  possibility  of  making  such  radical 
changes,  as  compared  with  the  multitude  of  poultry  keepers  who 
would  doubt  the  advisability  of  being  progressive  along  any  line 
that  would  change  the  natural  instinct  and  habits  of    hens. 

All  this  talk  is  not  theory.  It  is  the  result  of  patience  and 
perseverance  in  endeavoring  to  change  the  breeding  season  from 
March,  April  and  May  to  December,  January  and  February. 


41 

Several  years  ago  we  commenced  setting  eggs  January  20th, 
hatching  chickens  February  10th.  At  first  it  was  very  difficult 
to  get  hatchable  eggs  at  this  season  of  the  year.  A  few  of  the 
February  hatched  chickens  were  selected  for  the  next  winter's 
breeders,  and  the  eggs  were  75  per  cent,  fertile  and  hatched  well, 
and  the  chickens  showed  more  strength  than  those  of  the  previous 
year,  while  the  eggs  from  later-hatched  breeders  were  hardly 
worth  setting,  although  from  the  same  strain  of  fowls,  and  fed 
and  cared  for  just  as  those  producing  the  better  eggs.  This  com- 
menced to  open  our  eyes,  and  we  were  still  more  surprised  the 
following  year  to  find  nearly  every  egg  capable  of  producing  a 
strong,  healthy  chicken. 

Our  first  winter-hatched  chickens  last  season  were 
forced  for  early  egg  production,  and  were  laying  at  a  lively  rate 
during  July  and  August  and  in  fact  all  the  fall,  when  eggs  were 
selling  at  forty  to  fifty  cents  per  dozen,  and  we  never  had  hens 
more  productive  during  the  months  of  April  and  May.  Decem- 
ber 10th  thirty-nine  eggs  were  started  to  incubate  to  test  the 
fertility,  and  from  these,  twenty-seven  sturdy  chickens  hatched 
January  1st.  They  were  placed  out  of  doors  January  2nd  with- 
out artificial  heat  and  were  raised  almost  without  loss.  At  this 
writing.  May  1st,  the  average  weight  is  four  pounds.  The  cock- 
erels weighing  four  and  one-half  pounds  and  the  three  pullets 
three  and  one-half  pounds  each. 

From  this  experience  we  have  learned  several  things:  First, 
that  by  proper  selection  and  breeding,  eggs  may  be  produced 
that  will  hatch  as  well  in  January,  and  the  chickens  will  be  as 
strong,  as  those  hatched  in  June  ;  second,  that  chickens  may  be 
raised  with  the  least  trouble  without  artificial  heat  during' the 
coldest  winter  weather  ;  third,  that  the  surplus  brings  the 
highest  market  price,  and  that  the  pullets  will  do  most  of  the  lay- 
ing during  the  time  eggs  are  worth  gathering.  And  this  is  not  all. 
When  the  pullets  are  kept  in  condition  to  lay  all  through  the  win- 
ter they  will  molt  during  the  spring  and  will  then  be  in  condition 
to  lay  valuable  eggs  during  the  fall  and  winter  while  the  spring- 
hatched  hens  are  resting. 

Our  pullets  that  were  laying  last  July  are  now  in  the  full 
molt,  which  is  conclusive  evidence  that  we  are  not  laboring  under 
a  mistake,  and  also  that  changing  the  season  for  hatching 
will  also  change  the  season  of  greatest  productiveness. 

Like  many  other  valuable  discoveries,  this  has  all  come  about 
while  working  for  other  purposes,  especially  to  get  show  birds 
that  would  be  fully  developed  for  the  August  and  September 
shows,  and  not  trying  to  breed  them  to  lay  during  the  unnatural 
season.     Still  the  results  from  the  out-of-season  work  ha\e  been 


42 

more  valuable  to    us  along  unexpected  lines  than  the  purpose 
for  which    we   were   striving.  ^ 

SUMMER  AND  FALL  CHICKENS. 

All  chickens  hatched  by  July  1st  can  be  fully  matured  be- 
fore the  extreme  cold  of  winter  sets  in,  and  will  make  valuable 
poultry  for  late  breeders  or  for  laying  market  eggs. 

In  this  section  of  the  country  it  is  difficult  to  raise  chickens 
during  July  and  August  when  given  free  range,  as  the  insects 
are  too  numerous  and  many  of  them  are  very  injurious,  causing 
bowel  trouble,  which  results  in  the  loss  of  many  chicks.  When  con- 
fined to  the  coops  we  recommend,  and  the  coops  are  protected  from 
thedirect  rays  of  the  sun,  the  chickens  will  mature  as  rapidly  and 
make  as  good  poultry  as  those  hatched  during  the  earlier  months. 
Berry  bushes,  lima  beans  or  sun  flowers  make  good  shade,  and 
when  the  rows  are  planted  six  feet  apart  the  coops  may  be  moved 
between  the  rows.  Beans  and  sun  flowers  may  be  planted  in  the 
same  hill  or  drill,  and  you  will  not  have  to  set^poles,  as  the  sun- 
flowers grow  tall  and  answer  the  purpose  very  nicely. 

It  will  be  better  for  the  farmers  who  wish  to  allow  the  chicks 
free  range  to  set  as  many  eggs  as  possible  from  the  first  to  the 
tenth  of  August.  The  chicks  will  then  hatch  just  before  the  first 
of  September  and,  with  proper  care,  will  grow  and  develop 
more  rapidly  than  at  any  other  season  of  the  year.  The  cock- 
erels will  be  just  in  time  for  the  Thanksgiving  market  and  the 
pullets  can  be  wintered  cheaply  and  will  commence  laying  in  the 
early  spring,  making  the  very  best  summer  layers,  in  fact,  con- 
tinuing to  lay  after  the  earlier  hatched  have  stopped. 

PEDIGREE  BREEDING. 

It  is  safe  to  estimate  that  not  over  one  poultry  keeper  in  a 
thousand  can  tell  the  father  and  mother  of  each  chicken  raised 
or  who  can  tell  just  what  to  expect  from  the  results  of  mating 
more  than  two  or  three  hens  in  a  flock.  If  we  are  to  reach  the 
success  we  are  striving  for  it  is  very  important  that  we  know  the 
exact  breeding  of  every  chicken  raised  so  as  to  be  able  to  take 
advantage  of  our  season's  work  and  know  about  what  to  expect 
from  a  certain  line  of  mating. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  season  we  were  determined  to  be 
systematic  and  that  we  would  know  at  the  end  of  the  season  the 
father  and  mother  of  each  chicken  raised.     We  used  all  the  six- 


43 

teen  toe  marks,  but  soon  learned  that  it  would  be  necessary  to 
mark  the  chickens  in  other  ways  if  we  were  to  keep  an  accurate 
record  of  all  the  chickens. 

During  the  present  year  w^e  have  already  mated  each  of  our 
five  best  exhibition  hens  to  four  of  our  best  exhibition  males. 
With  these  several  matings  it  has  been  necessary  to  have  four 
distinct  marks  for  each  of  the  live  hens,  making  tw^enty  in  all, 
to  keep  an  accurate  record  showing  the  ancestors  of  each  chicken 
raised.  After  all  the  sixteen  toe  marks  had  been  used  we  com- 
menced using  aluminum  pigeon  bands,  which  are  simply  pressed 
together  and  may  be  expanded  as  the  legs  of  the  chickens  develop. 
When  the  chickens  are  banded,  the  records  are  made  by  using 
the  number  on  the  band  to  distinguish  the  chickens. 

To  be  accurate  and  know  the  sire  of  every  chicken,  it  is 
necessary  to  incubate  the  eggs  as  long  as  the  fertility  lasts  before 
starting  the  next  mating,  when  fertile  eggs  may  be  expected  in 
three  days. 

When  several  hundred  chickens  are  banded  it  is  quite  a  task 
to  see  that  the  bands  are  not  too  tight.  At  the  time  of  expanding 
the  bands  (which  is  necessary  about  once  every  two  weeks)  we 
get  much  pleasure  in  consulting  the  records  and  noting  the  devel- 
opment and  markings  of  the  chickens  from  certain  matings,  and 
w^e  soon  learn  the  source  from  which  the  best  chickens  come, 
giving  us  an  opportunity  to  produce  more  chickens  from  the  same 
line  before  the  close  of  the  season,  and  to  discard  all  breeders 
failing  to  produce  strong,  healthy  chickens  of  the  quality  desired 
and  those  not  maturing  properly. 

When  the  chickens  have  outgrown  the  pigeon  bands,  larger 
ones  must  be  substituted,  and  the  new  numbers  recorded  in  their 
proper  place. 

W'hen  attempting  this  w^ork  with  twelve  to  fifteen  males  and 
nearly  a  hundred  females  to  select  from,  much  thought  and  study 
are  necessary  to  get  the  best  results  and  to  get  the  majority  of 
the  chickens  from  the  breeders  producing  the  best  vspecimens. 

The  only  advantage  we  have  been  able  to  find  in  breeding 
old  fowls  is  in  knowing  just  what  to  expect  from  certain  matings. 
This  may  be  good  practice  to  a  certain  extent;  still  by  so  doing 
we  are  satisfied  to  leave  "well  enough"  alone  and  are  not  taking 
advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  raise  better  poultry.  If  we  are 
doing  the  work  properly  there  should  be  an  improvement  in  each 
generation,  and  to  use  last  season's  breeders  we  are  just  one  year 
behind. 


44 

LEG    WEAKNESS. 

Winter  chicks  are  often  troubled  with  a  weakness  of  the  legs, 
and  some  times  the  toes  will  turn  under  until  they  lose  the  use 
of  their  feet.  Indigestion  is  the  cause,  and  the  best  remedy  is 
to  stop  all  fattening  food  such  as  corn  and  corn  meal.  Give  plenty 
of  ground  oats,  wheat  bran  and  milk,  until  they  have  recovered 
the  use  of  their  feet,  then  feed  but  sparingly  of  rich  foods  and 
those  hard  to  digest. 

Leg  weakness  is  seldom,  if  ever,  found  when  the  chicks  are 
on  the  ground,  and  when  it  is  possible  to  keep  them  there  it  is 
much  better  than  on  board  floors. 

GAPES. 

When  ground  once  becomes  infected  with  gape  worms,  it  is 
very  difficult  to  keep  chicks  free  from  the  pests.  The  freezing 
of  the  ground  during  the  winter  does  not  kill  the  worms,  and  the 
chicks  that  have  access  to  the  infected  ground  soon  become  af- 
flicted. If  only  a  few  are  troubled,  most  of  them  may  be  saved 
by  removing  the  worms  from  the  windpipes  of  the  chicks  with  a 
horse-hair  or  fine  wire.  But  if  they  are  put  into  our  anti-lice 
brooder,  they  may  be  more  quickly  treated.  Sprinkle  air-slaked 
lime  and  pulverized  sulphur  on  the  cloth  cover  of  the  brooder. 
When  the  chicks  move  about  in  the  brooder  the  lime  is  sifted 
through  the  cloth,  causing  the  chicks  to  inhale  a  little  of  it  during 
the  night.  A  very  little  of  the  lime  should  be  used  at  a  time, 
so  as  not  to  smother  the  chicks.  The  same  treatment  is  also 
good  for  colds,  canker,  etc. 

When  fresh  ground  from  the  field  is  supplied  for  the  brooder 
runs  to  a  depth  of  about  ten  inches,  your  chicks  will  never  have 
the  gapes. 

LICE. 

Sprinkle  a  little  lice  powder  on  the  brooder  cloth  over  the 
chickens  and  there  will  be  no  lice. 

When  the  buildings  are  overrun  with  lice  the  best  remedy  is 
boiling  water.  Thoroughly  drench  the  inside  of  the  building 
with  dipperfuls  of  boiling  water.  Do  not  use  a  spray,  as  the 
water  will  cool  before  reaching  the  lice. 

Dissolve  as  much  salt  as  pOvSsible  in  the  water  and  one  treat 
ment  will  generally  last  a  full  season. 

Old  fowls  dusting  in  wood  ashes  will  be  free  from  lice 


47 
BROODING  CHICKENS  WITHOUT  ARTIFICIAL  HEAT. 

Thousands  of  chickens  are  raised  every  year  without  arti- 
ficial heat.  It  is  not  a  new  discovery,  as  it  has  been  practiced  in 
China  and  Egypt  many  centuries,  yet  Americans,  usually  quick 
to  take  advantage  of  improved  methods,  have  been  slow  in  dis- 
covering the  advantages  of  this  system.  We  as  Americans  are 
not  satisfied  to  accomplish  things  in  a  small  way  like  our  ancient 
friends,  and  have  endeavored  to  devise  appliances  whereby  the 
chickens  may  be  turned  out  like  the  output  of  great  factories. 
Although  the  output  may  be  unlimited,  nature  has  something 
to  say  when  its  laws  are  violated  to  any  great  extent.  Raising 
the  chickens  is  not  at  all  unlike  hatching  them.  By  furnishing 
a  little  higher  degree  of  heat  than  is  given  the  eggs  under  natural 
conditions  we  hasten  the  process  of  incubation  from  twenty-four 
to  forty-eight  hours  and  get  bright,  healthy  looking  youngsters 
until  the  time  arrives  for  them  to  derive  nourishment  from  the 
absorbed  yolk,  when  excessive  heating  having  hardened  the  yolk, 
the  chick  must  soon  perish.  Chickens  thrive  for  a  time  when 
subjected  to  a  temperature  above  that  supplied  by  the  mother  hen, 
still  the  bad  eftccts  are  soon  discovered  and  the  chicken  dwindles 
without  any  apparent  cause.  Naturealsorebels  when  the  number 
of  chickens  in  one  flock  is  greatly  in  excess  of  those  raised  under 
natural  conditions. 

We  have  raised  chickens  successfully  for  many  years  with- 
out supplying  heat,  and  in  many  instances  where  the  temper- 
ature would  drop  below  zero  for  a  week  at  a  time,  and  without 
loss  or  bad  effect  on  any  of  the  chickens.  Until  the  last  few  years 
our  experiments  have  been  too  elaborate  and  complicated  to  be 
practical.  All  that  is  really  required  is  a  very  simple  device 
by  which  the  natural  heat  of  the  chicken  is  retained. 

The  plan  we  give  in  this  book  is  very  simple,  yet  the  proper 
conditions  may  be  had  for  successful  work,  and  without  the  danger 
so  common  and  fatal  with  the  average  artificially  heated  brooder. 

We  are  not  surprised  that  people  generally  are  slow  to  be- 
lieve it  possible  to  brood  baby  chickens  successfully  during  the 
coldest  winter  weather  out  of  doors  without  artificial  heat,  and 
were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  they  are  thus  grown  right  under  our 
own  eyes  we  might  be  as  slow  as  others  to  think  it  possible  to 
accomplish  the  work  in  a  satisfactory  manner. 

While  writing  this  for  the  book  in  a  comfortable  office  by  the 
side  of  a  warm  fire — there  are  about  forty  baby  chickens  in  one 
flock  now  only  two  days  old  just  a  few  feet  away  out  of  doors  in 
the  brooders  without  artificial  heat.  There  are  also  several 
other  flocks  one  week  old,  two  weeks  old,  three  weeks  old,  etc  , 


until  reaching  maturity.  Since  the  two  younger  lots  have  been 
hatched  and  placed  in  the  yard  the  weather  has  been  cloudy  and 
very  cold  with  only  one  day  of  partial  sunshine.  Several  morn- 
ings have  found  the  temperature  at  zero,  and  yesterday  it  was 
12°  below.  A  heavy  fall  of  snow  last  night  and  today  has  nearly 
covered  the  brooder  coops,  the  glass  is  thickly  covered  with 
frost,  yet  the  chickens  in  the  frosted  coops,  now  only  a  few  days 
old,  are  as  bright  and  lively  as  crickets. 

It  has  required  many  years  of  study  and  experimenting  to 
give  the  writer  courage  to  make  the  trial  during  the  extreme  winter 
weather,  although  it  has  been  a  success  during  the  spring  and 
summer   for   many   years  past. 

Hardly  a  day  passes  when  people  are  not  here  from  hundreds 
of  miles  away  to  see  the  tiny  living  balls  of  downy  chickens  in 
their  snow-bound  quarters,  as  chipper  and  bright  as  snow  birds 
on  a  cold  winter's  day. 

AH  conditions  must  be  absolutely  correct  to  be  successful 
during  the  coldest  weather.  To  get  these  results  the  details  of 
the  work  as  set  forth  in  this  article  must  be  carefully  followed  or 
there  will  be  a  lot  of  frozen  chickens  and  disappointed  poultry 
keepers.  One  party  who  was  very  anxious  to  try  brooding  with- 
out heat,  during  one  of  the  coldest  days  last  winter  placed  two 
chickens,  just  hatched,  out  of  doors,  without  heat  early  in  the 
morning  before  going  to  work.  On  returning  at  noon  the  chickens 
were  found  right  where  they  had  been  left  and  were  frozen  until 
they  were  as  hard  as  the  heart  of  the  thoughtless  keeper.  Had  he 
profited  by  what  he  had  read  he  would  have  known  that  it  re- 
quired at  least  twenty-five  chickens  to  furnish  the  necessary  heat 
to  keep  them  warm. 

In  the  first  place  we  will  take  up  the  construction  of  the  latest 
brooder  coops  just  as  they  are  now  being  used  by  us  with  the  best 
success,  and  hope  to  mak  it  so  plain  that  additional  information 
will  not  be  necessary. 

BROODER  COOP  CONSTRUCTION:— Hemlock  lumber 
is  used  for  the  foundation,  as  it  will  last  longer  when  placed  on 
the  ground  than  any  other  kind  of  inexpensive  lumber.  The 
box  part  of  the  brooder  coops  is  made  of  North  Carolina  pine,  as 
good,  sound  boards  twelve  inches  wide  can  be  bought  at  a  lower 
price  than  any  other  kind  of  lumber,  and  when  it  is  painted  in- 
side and  outside  it  will  last  many  years.  The  strips  for  the  tops 
and  sliding  frames  are  made  of  soft  pine  or  native  poplar,  either 
of  which  will  hold  a  nail  without  splitting  and  are  light  to  handle 
and  durable.  We  use  one-ply  Paroid  roofing  for  floors  and  two- 
ply  for  the  roof. 


51 

The  center  partition  is  held  in  position  with  cleats  so  it  c;in 
be  easily  removed  when  not  required  to  retain  the  heat  for  the 
little  chickens. 

FOUNDATION :-The  foundation  frames  are  made  of  1x4 
in.  lumber  just  the  size  of  the  coop,  six  feet  long  and  three  feet 
wide  outside  with  a  four  inch  partition  in  the  center.  In  one 
end  of  the  coop  the  floor  is  laid  on  strips  about  one  and  one-half 
•inches  from  the  bottom  to  keep  the  boards  off  the  ground  and 
prevent  them  from  getting  damp.  The  floor  is  then  covered  with 
one-ply  roofing  material  that  the  moisture  from  the  top  may  not 
penetrate  the  boards  when  the  litter  becomes  damp. 

The  coops  and  foundations  were  formerly  made  of  square 
edged  boards.  We  are  now  making  them  ship  lapped  to  hold 
the  sections  and  foundations  together  without  being  nailed,  and 
to  prevent  the  storms  and  wind  from  going  through  the  open 
cracks  which  are  likely  to  appear  when  square-edged  boards  are 
used.  Any  lumber  dealer  will  understand  the  term  ship  lap,  so 
that  you  will  not  have  any  trouble  in  getting  this  kind  of  lumber. 

COOPS: — The  brooder  coop  is  the  exact  size  of  the  founda- 
tion frame,  three  feet  wide  and  six  feet  long.  The  boards  are 
ship  lapped  on  the  bottom  edge  to  fit  over  the  foundation.  The 
back  board  is  twelve  inches  wide  and  the  two  ends  and  center 
boards  are  one  and  one-quarter  inches  narrower  to  allow  room  for 
the  sliding  frame  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  between  the  frame 
and  the  cover  for  ventilation  when  the  coop  is  closed  on  very 
cold  nights.  An  opening  four  inches  square  is  cut  in  the  partition 
board  for  the  chickens  to  pass  from  one  end  of  the  coop  to  the 
other.  A  sash  one  foot  wide  by  six  feet  long,  having  six  panes 
of  glass,  is  used  to  form  the  front  of  the  coop,  and  the  bottom  of 
of  the  sash  is  also  rabbetted  to  fit  the  foundation.  Parting  strips 
1-2x7-8  in.,  which  are  used  in  building  window  f ramies,  may  be 
had  at  almost  any  lumber  yard.  These  are  nailed  lengthwise 
on  the  inside  of  the  back  board  and  the  inside  top  edge  of  the 
sash  1  1-4  in.  down  from  the  top  so  that  they  will  come  level  with 
the  ends  of  the  coop  for  the  muslin  frame  to  slide  on. 

SLIDINCx  FRAME:— The  muslin  frame  is  made  of  7-8 
xl  l-2in.  strips  of  lumber  mitered  at  the  corner  and  with  a  center 
piece  of  the  same  material  to  strengthen  the  long  sides.  The 
frame  is  covered  with  one-inch  wire  netting  and  over  this  is 
tacked  an  inexpensive  grade  of  unbleached  muslin.  The  entire 
frame  is  covered  for  cold  weather  or  where  the  climate  is  cold ,  but 
during  warm  weather  only  one-half  of  the  frame  is  covered  with 
muslin.  This  frame  may  be  made  of  1-2x1  1-2  or  2  in.  strips 
and  lapped  at  the  corners  instead  of  mitering,  which  might  be 


02 

easier  tor  some  people  who  are  not  accustomed  to  this  kind  of 
work. 

We  are  now  putting  the  Paroid  on  top  of  the  frame  work 
instead  of  on  the  under  side  with  three  strips  on  top  as  described 
below. 

In  making  the  roof  two  strips  6  ft,  2  in.  long  are  used,  the 
front  one  3  in.  wide,  and  the  back  one  2  in.  For  the  ribs  on  the 
under  side  we  use  eight  strips  2  ft.  9  in.  long  and  2  in.  wide,  and 
one  strip  2  ft.  9  in.  long  and  3  in.  wide.  For  the  top  we  use  two 
strips  3  ft.  2  in.  long  and  2  in.  wide,  and  one  strip  3  ft.  2  in.  long 
and  3  in.  wide.     All  these  are  7-8  in.  thick. 

The  Paroid  is  3  ft.  wide  and  we  cut  two  pieces  3  ft.  2  in. 
long.  The  ends  of  each  piece  of  Paroid  are  nailed  to  the  long 
strips,  with  the  outer  edge  of  each  piece  even  with  the  ends  of 
the  long  strips.  This  makes  the  roof  6  ft.  2  in.  long  and  3  ft.  2 
in.  wide,  with  a  two  in.  open  space  in  the  center  between  the  two 
pieces  of  Paroid. 

Now  turn  the  roof  over  and  nail  the  nine  2  ft.  9  in.  strips 
(the  3  in.  one  in  the  center)  between  the  inside  edges  of  the  long 
strips.  These  shorter  strips  should  be  cut  so  as  to  crowd  the 
long  strips  apart  and  stretch  the  Paroid  to  remove  all  wrinkles. 
When  these  strips  are  all  nailed  in  their  places,  turn  the  roof  over 
again  and  nail  the  Paroid  to  these  short  strips,  taking  pains  to  see 
that  the  inside  edges  are  securely  fastened  to  the  3  in.  strip.  Fill 
the  space  between  these  edges  with  roofing  cement  or  paint,  and 
also  let  it  come  over  a  little  on  each  edge.  You  now  have  left 
the  three  3  ft.  2  in.  strips ;  nail  the  3  in.  strip  over  this  center  space, 
and  a  2  in.  strip  at  each  end.  This  will  now  be  the  top  of  the 
roof,  with  three  strips  showing  over  the  Paroid,  while  the  under- 
side will  have  two  long  strips  and  nine  short  ones.  This  arrange- 
ment makes  the  roof  absolutely  water-proof. 

Astripof  wood  1-2  in.  thick  by  1  1-2  in.  wide  and  3  feet  long  is 
used  to  hold  the  roof  in  any  desired  position.  A  small  hole  is 
bored  through  one  end  of  the  stick  to  fasten  it  to  the  top  edge  of 
front  sash.  The  hole  should  be  large  enough  to  allow  the  stick 
to  move  at  any  angle  without  binding,  but  not  so  much  that  it 
will  slide  off  the  head  of  the  screw.  Several  larger  holes  are  bored 
in  the  stick  so  that  they  will  slide  over  the  head  of  the  screw  m 
the  center  of  the  front  edge  of  the  roof,  that  it  may  be  adjusted 
at  any  desired  angle,  as  it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  change  the 
adjustment  in  varied  weather  conditions.  When  the  sun  shines 
the  roof  should  be  wide  open  and  when  it  is  stormy,  it  should  be 
nearly  closed,  but  not  entirely  closed  unless  the  weather  is  very 
cold. 


HOW  TO  SET  THE  COOPS ;— The  ground  should  be  nearly 
level  where  the  coop  is  set.  ^  If  the  ground  is  frozen  hard  it  will 
not  matter,  as  the  sun  shining  through  the  sash  will  soon  draw 
the  frost,  and  the  little  chicks  over  the  board  floor  will  not  suffer 
even  though  the  ground  is  frozen  solid. 

The  coop  should  be  placed  so  it  will  face  the  south  during 
the  winter,  and  if  possible  where  there  will  not  be  any  obstruction 
to  prevent  what  little  sunshine  there  is  from  entering  the  coop. 

The  roof  should  be  opened  when  the  sun  is  shining,  to  dry 
out  the  cloth  and  give  a  11  the  ventilation  it  is  possible  to  give  them 
without  exposure.  When  the  sun  is  not  shining,  and  at  night, 
the  roof  should  be  closed,  unless  the  night  is  warm,  when  it  may 
be  left  open  about  six  inches.  During  the  warn  weather  the 
coop  should  face  the  north,  and  the  roof  will  shield  the  chickens 
from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 

When  there  is  twice  as  much  ground  as  required  for  coops 
it  might  be  an  advantage  to  move  the  coops  once  each  week  to 
give  the  ground  a  chance  to  purify  itself  by  absorbing  the  am- 
monia and  decomposed  matter  from  the  droppings,  requiring 
less  spading  to  keep  everything  in  a  perfectly  sanitary  condition. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  find  filthy  conditions  in  poultry  yards 
where  valuable  stock  is  being  raised,  when  a  few  minutes  properly 
used  every  day  would  keep  everything  in  fine  order. 

The  cover  is  used  as  a  protection  against  storm  and  against 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  when  too  warm  for  the  comfort  of  the 
chickens,  and  may  be  lifted  to  any  desired  angle  to  make  the 
chickens  comfortable  with  unfavorable  weather  conditions. 
When  the  chicks  are  very  young  the  cover  is  let  down  flat  at 
night  to  retain  the  heat. 

The  cost  of  this  brooder  coop  is  not  over  half  the  cost  of 
coops  commonly  used  for  the  same  purpose.  The  chickens  are 
at  all  times  in  the  best  possible  condition  to  raise  them  practically 
without  loss. 

For  an  experiment  a  cockerel  weighing  about  three  pounds 
was  taken  from  one  of  the  coops  and  given  his  liberty  and  the 
free  run  of  the  garden.  In  just  a  month  he  gained  one  pound  in 
weight,  while  those  confined  in  the  coops  gained  one  and  a  half 
pounds  each.  This  bird  was  given  the  same  kind  of  food  as  thoi  e 
confined,  besides  having  the  pick  of  the  garden. 


'A 


BROODER  WITHOUT  ARTIFICIAL  HEAT. 

BROODER  BOX  CONSTRUCTION:— Make  a  box  of 
half-inch  or  thicker  lumber  eighteen  inches  square  inside  and  eight 
inches  deep.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  box  with  water-proof 
roofing  material  so  that  it  may  be  easily  cleaned  and  to  prevent 
the  bottom  board  from  getting  damp.  Cut  an  opening  in  the 
center  of  one  side  of  the  box  three  and  one-half  inches  square 
for  the  chickens  to  enter. 

Make  a  frame  of  one-half  inch  by  one  inch  strips  of  lumber 
a  little  less  than  eighteen  inches  square  so  it  will  fit  loosely  in  the 
brooder  box.  The  corners  of  the  frame  may  be  lapped  and  nailed, 
or  mitered.  '  Tack  a  piece  of  unbleached  muslin  or  cotton  cloth 
on  the  underside  of  the  frame  so  it  will  sag  in  the  center  about 
two  inches  below  the  frame.  This  is  best  accomplished  by  mak- 
ing half-inch  plaits  in  the  cloth  about  two  inches  from  each  cor- 
ner of  the  frame.  Small  nails  may  be  partially  driven  on  the 
inside  of  the  box  to  hold  the  frame  at  the  desired  height. 


87 

Three  cushions  are  made  of  muslin  or  cotton  cloth  eighteen 
inches  square,  or  just  the  right  size  to  fill  the  box,  and  each  of 
these  is  filled  with  about  one-half  pound  of  cotton,  so  when 
finished  they  will  be  about  one  inch  thick.  The  three  cushions 
should  weigh  about  one  and  one-half  pounds.  They  should  be 
tied  as  in  making  comfortables  to  hold  the  cotton  in  place.  The 
cushions  are  the  only  tops  to  the  brooder  boxes  and  are  better 
than  to  have  a  board  cover. 

This  brooder  box  will  accomodate  about  fifty  chickens  at 
first  and  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  when  they  are  four  weeks 
old.  It  will  brood  twenty-five  chickens  as  long  as  they  require 
brooding  during  the  coldest  weather.  The  brooder  is  to  be  used 
inside  the  brooder  coop,  which  will  afford  ample  protection  for 
tnG  chicles 

THE  BEST  WAY  TO  LEARN  HOW:— While  it  is  possible 
to  raise  the  finest  chickens  during  the  coldest  weather  without 
artificial  heat,  it  is  somewhat  safer  and  easier  to  keep  them  in  the 
"Metal  Mother"  at  first  (which  is  supplied  with  heat  and  auto- 
matically regulated)  until  they  are  about  one  week  old.  They 
learn  to  go  into  the  heated  brooders  with  less  teaching,  and  when 
about  one  week  old  the  lampless  brooders  will  be  more  readily 
accepted. 

After  having  a  little  experience  in  brooding  without  heat 
there  will  not  be  any  difficultyin  placing  the  chickens  in  the  lamp- 
less  brooders  as  soon  as  hatched;  even  during  the  coldest  weather. 

There  should  never  be  less  than  25  chickens  at  first  when  the 
weather  is  freezing  cold,  and  when  it  is  zero  weather  there  should 
be  about  40,  and  when  it  is  25  below  zero  there  should  be  50 
ch'ckens  in  each  brooder.  Although  it  might  be  possible  to 
brood  them  out  of  doors  without  heat  when  it  is  colder  than  25 
degrees  below  zero,  we  haven't  made  the  test,  as  this  is  about 
the  coldest  weather  we  ever  have  in  this  locality. 

In  testing  the  work  where  it  is  much  colder,  we  would  carry 
the  chickens  into  the  house  at  night,  brooder  box  and  all,  and 
only  place  them  out  in  the  brooder  coop  when  the  sun  is  shining, 
untilthey  are  old  enough  to  stand  the  cold  and  keep  comfortably 
warm  at  night  when  in  the  brooder  box. 

When  there  are  but  few  chickens  to  brood  and  the  weather 
is  very  cold  they  should  only  be  placed  out  of  doors  when  the 
sun  is  shining,until  they  are  about  one  week  old,  or  1  arge  enough 
to  keep  warm  without  being  carried  into  the  house. 

When  the  chicks  are  first  hatched  the  box  is  filled  to  the 
cloth-covered  frame  with  cut  clover  or  other  fine  litter.  A  small 
nest  is  made  in  the  center  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  chickens, 
and  as  soon  as  the  chickens  are  old  enough  to  run  out.  a  little 


58 

depression  is  made  in  the  litter  to  the  opening  of  the  brooder. 

The  litter  should  be  changed  as  often  as  it  becomes  damp 
which  is  about  once  the  first  week  and  twice  each  week  when  the 
chickens  are  older. 

Place  the  cloth-covered  frame  in  the  brooder  box  so  the  lower 
part  of  the  cloth  will  just  touch  the  litter,  which  should  be  at 
least  once  inch  deep  in  the  center  of  the  box  and  much  deeper 
around  the  sides  of  the  box.  Over  this  place  one  cushion  at 
first  when  the  weather  is  warm,  two  cushions  when  it  is  freezing, 
and  three  cushions  for  zero  weather.  The  correct  number  ot 
cushions  to  use  after  the  chickensare  older  can  only  be  determined 
by  the  number  of  chickens  in  the  brooder,  their  size  and  the 
condition  of  the  weather.  The  desired  conditions  can  best  be 
learned  by  running  the  hand  through  the  small  opening  in  the 
box  after  the  chickens  have  been  in  it  for  about  one  hour.  When 
they  are  found  crowded  together  and  there  is  evidence  of  moisture, 
the  cushions  should  be  lowered  to  keep  out  circulating  air,  there- 
by inducing  the  chickens  to  spread  out  rather  than  to  huddle. 
The  top  cushion  will  become  quite  damp  and  should  be  placed 
out  in  the  sun  and  air  to  dry  two  or  three  times  weekly.  A  few 
extra  cushions  will  be  found  very  handy. 

During  zero  weather  when  the  chickens  are  first  hatched  the 
small  opening  in  the  side  of  the  box  should  be  banked  with  clover 
to  keep  out  the  cold  air.  If  the  clover  is  dry  there  will  not  be 
any  danger  of  smothering  the  chickens,  as  the  ventilation  through 
it  will  give  them  all  the  air  they  require  on  a  zero  night,  and  the 
opening  should  never  be  closed  in  any  other  way.  The  brooder 
should  always  be  used  in  the  brooder  coop  ,  made  after  the  plans 
as  set  forth  in  this  book. 

The  brooder  box  should  be  placed  in  the  end  of  the  brooder 
coop,  having  a  floor  and  dry  litter,  and  the  chickens  confined  to 
this  end  of  the  coop,  until  they  are  old  enough  to  find  their  way 
back  to  the  brooder,  which  is  generally  in  about  three  days  after 
being  hatched.  The  cut  clover  or  litter  should  be  about  one 
inch  thick  over  the  floor  of  the  coop,  a  nd  should  be  changed  as 
often  as  it  becomes  damp. 

The  chickens  are  always  fed  in  the  brooder  coop  outside  of 
the  brooder  box,  even  during  the  coldest  weather,  which  will  not 
injure  them  in  the  least,  provided  they  find  their  way  back  soon 
after  they  have  satisfied  their  hunger.  Thehalf  of  the  brooder 
coop  without  the  floor  should  be  filled  with  finely  sifted  sand 
about  four  inches  deep,  so  it  will  come  about  level  with  the  floor 
and  high  enough  above  the  ground  to  keep  it  reasonably  dry. 
It  is  better,  however,  not  to  become  perfectly  dry,  but  should  be 
just  dry  enough  to  keep  it  fine,  and  moist  enough  to  sprout  grain 


59 

that  should  be  mixed  in  with  the  sand  each  day.  At  first  a  very 
little  chick  food  is  sprinkled  over  the  sand  and  slightly  mixed 
with  it  so  it  will  not  be  difificult  for  the  chickens  to  find  it.  When 
kept  busily  at  work  scratching  for  the  food,  and  provided  with 
an  abundance  of  dry  wheat  bran  and  sprouted  oats  they  will 
never  have  indigestion,  weak  legs,  or  the  blind  staggers,  which 
are  common  with  winter  chickens  raised  on  board  floors. 
(See  page  29,  Feeding  The  First  Three  Weeks.) 

SUMMER  COLONY  COOP. 

Every  poultryman,  farmer  or  fancier  will  find  our  light 
Summer  Colony  Coops  of  much  value,  even  though  our  entire 
system  is  not  adopted.  They  are  especially  well  adapted  for 
use  as  a  desirable  place  to  keep  a  small  breeding  pen  from  early 
Spring  until  the  end  of  the  season.  They  may  also  be  used  to 
the  best  advantage  as  a  brooder  coop,  as  well  as  for  broody  hens, 
fattening  cockerels,  maturing  pullets,  and  growing  capons. 

The  cost  of  material  and  labor  to  build  this  style  of  coop  is 
not  over  half  that  required  to  build  the  Winter  Colony  Coop,  and 
its  value  in  a  poultry  plant  can  hardly  be  overestimated. 

Two  panels  four  feet  wide  and  twelve  feet  long  are  used  in 
forming  the  coop.  Two  three-cornered  ends  made  with  doors, 
and  one  partition  covered  with  muslin,  make  the  complete  coop 
without  furniture,  the  center  partition  being  used  only  in  cold 
weather  to  retain  the  heat  while  the  fowls  are  roosting,  or  when 
used  as  a  brooder  coop  to  retain  the  heat  for  the  chickens. 

The  lumber  used  is  half  or  three-quarter  inch  strips  two 
inches  wide  and  four  feet  long  running  up  and  down;  the  ends  are 
nailed  to  three  by  one  inch  strips  twelve  feet  long.  Heavy  water- 
proof roofing  material  is  used  to  enclose  the  ends,  and  six  feet  of 
che  center  is  covered  with  one-inch  mesh  wire  netting,  making 
a  roosting  room,  feed  room  and  park.  The  one-inch  mesh  wire 
is  used  to  keep  sparrows  out. 

CONSTRUCTION  OF  SUMMER  COLONY  COOP. 

To  make  the  panels,  mark  out  a  place  on  the  floor  four  feet 
wide  by  twelve  feet  long,  and  draw  a  four-feet  cross  line  three  feet 
from  either  end,  leaving  six  feet  in  the  center.  By  measuring 
with  a  rod  about  thirteen  feet  long  from  corner  to  corner  in  the 
form  of  a  letter  X  you  will  get  the  panels  perfectly  square  when 
the  measurements  are  alike  from  either  corner.  Nail  four  or 
five  cleats  along  each  of  the  twelve  feet  lines,  place  the  two-inch 


60 

Strip  twelve  feet  long  on  one  of  the  lines  and  the  three-inch  strip 
on  the  other.  Cut  roofing  material  that  is  three  feet  wide  in 
strips  four  feet  long,  and  one-inch  mesh  wire  netting  that  is  four 
feet  wide  in  strips  six  feet  three  inches  long.  Tack  the  roofing 
and  netting  in  place  on  one  of  the  twelve-feet  strips,  then  nail 
over  this  the  six  four-feet  strips  as  indicated  in  the  drawing. 
Nail  the  other  end  of  the  four-feet  strips,  and  also  the  roofing  and 
wire  to  the  other  long  strip,  drawing  it  tight  and  smooth.  Turn 
the  panel  over  and  nail  the  roofing  and  netting  to  the  four-feet 
strips,  and  the  panel  will  be  completed. 

When  two  long  panels  have  been  completed,  stand  them  up 
and  fasten  the  top  edges  together,  then  spread  the  bottoms  three 
feet  six  inches.  You  will  then  have  the  exact  size  and  shape  for 
the  end  panels.  Make  a  drawing  on  the  floor  of  this  size.  Lay  a 
piece  of  ten-inch  board  along  the  bottom  line,  then  hold  over  the 
long  lines  a  straight-edge  strip  which  will  give  the  bevel  to  mark 
the  ten-inch  board,  making  a  pattern  to  be  used  in  marking  out 
as  many  of  the  ten-inch  boards  as  will  be  needed  to  complete  the 
coops. 

"In  the  same  manner  lay  a  one  by  two-inch  strip  along  the 
four-feet  line,  find  the  center  of  the  bottom  line  which  will  be 
twenty-two  inches  from  the  corner,  lay  a  strip  over  this  line  with 
the  other  end  over  a  point  where  the  two  four-feet  lines  intersect ; 
marking  along  this  strip  will  give  the  correct  miter  for  the  upper 
corner,  and  a  pattern  to  use  in  laying  out  the  others.  The  doors 
are  made  in  the  same  manner  of  a  proper  size  to  fit  inside  the 
other  frame,  and  long  enough  to  lap  a  half  inch  over  the  face  side 
of  the  ten-inch  base  board. 

The  doors  are  covered  with  muslin  or  roofing  material  and 
hinged  to  the  frame  making  the  end  panel. 

When  used  early  in  the  spring  and  late  in  the  fall,  panels 
four  by  six  feet  covered  with  roofing  material  are  used  over  the 
netting  to  protect  the  birds  from  the  rain  and  snow.  They  are 
fastened  at  the  top  -with  screw  hooks  or  light  hinges,  and  are 
raised  at  any  desired  angle  to  overcome  unfavorable  weather 
conditions. 

The  arrangement  of  the  roosts,  nests,  etc.,  is  plainly  shown 
in  the  drawings. 


HOW   TO   USE  THE  SUMMER   COLONY    COOP. 

It  is  best  to  place  this  coop  over  mellow  soil  without  grass 
sod,  as  the  fowls  require  exercise  to  keep  them  in  perfect  condi- 
tion.    A  handful  of  whole  oats  raked  or  spaded  into  the  mellow 


soil  every  day  will  provide  the  necessary  attraction  and  also 
some  green  food,  as  some  of  the  grain  will  not  be  discovered  until 
it  sends  forth  a  delicate  sprout  that  is  greatly  relished. 

When  not  limited  for  room,  the  most  desirable  conditions 
may  be  had  by  seeding  to  clover  a  strip  of  ground  six  feet  wide 
by  twenty-five  feet  long.  One  by  six  hemlock  boards  should  be 
placed  in  the  ground  along  either  edge  of  the  clover  sod ,  extending 
about  one  inch  above  the  sod  to  protect  the  edges  from  being 
scratched  out.  The  colony  coop  is  placed  crosswise  over  the 
sod  (when  thoroughly  established,)  in  a  manner  to  bring  the  por- 
tion enclosed  in  the  netting  over  the  sod  with  the  three  feet  on 
either  end  over  the  mellow  soil  for  exercise  and  dusting.  The 
coop  is  moved  three  and  one-half  feet,  or  just  its  width  every 
day  to  give  its  occupants  a  fresh  supply  of  clover,  and  also  to 
prevent  them  from  digging  up  the  roots.  The  space  of  twenty- 
five  feet  will  allow  seven  days  for  moving  the  coop  without  being 
in  the  same  position  any  two  days,  allowing  seven  days  to  re- 
plenish the  clover  that  is  consumed  in  one  day.  This  brings 
about  ideal  conditions  for  a  breeding  pen  of  six  hens,  and  when 
they  fail  under  such  conditions  to  produce  six  eggs  per  day  many 
days  in  the  season,  they  have  not  been  properly  bred. 

When  limited  for  room  the  coop  may  be  kept  in  one  position 
during  the  entire  season  by  thoroughly  working  the  soil. 

WINTER    COLONY    COOP. 

In  our  Winter  Colony  Coop  we  have  combined  a  complete 
poultry  plant,  especially  well  adapted  for  housing  and  yarding 
poultry  of  all  ages  from  the  day  they  are  first  hatched,  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  and  in  all  weather  conditions  from  the  hottest 
summer  days  of  the  South  to  the  coldest  days  of  the  extreme 
iN'orth.  With  this  coop  it  is  possible  for  parties  renting  property, 
and  the  city  fancier  limited  for  space,  to  raise  as  fine  poultry,  and 
get  as  good  returns  as  the  farmer  who  has  unlimited  range.  The 
entire  poultry  plant  is  moved  as  easily  as  household  furniture, 
and  a  day's  notice  (without  handling  a  hen)  will  enable  one  to 
locate  his  plant  many  miles  from  the  original  site. 

Many  people  refrain  from  keeping  poultry  on  account  of 
the  cost  of  building,  without  any  assurance  of  being  able  to  dis- 
pose of  the  buildings  at  the  original  cost.  With  our  system  there 
will  be  a  demand  for  the  coops,  when  properly  constructed  of 
good  materials,  at  nearly  the  original  cost.  The  actual  expense 
of  building  them  to  accommodate  any  number  of  hens  is  not  over 
three-fourths  as  much  as  a  large  house  would  cost  to  accommodate 


the  same  number  of  fowls.     The  egg  yield  will  be  at  least   twenty 
five  per  cent,  greater  than  where  twenty-five  or  fifty  hens  are 
kept  in  one  flock,  and  a  larger  number  of  the  chickens  hatched 
may  be  raised,  making  better  fowls  than  would  be  possible   to 
raise  under  ordinary  conditions. 

The  standard  size  of  the  coop  is  three  feet  wide,  six  feet  long 
and  three  feet  eight  inches  high  to  the  eaves  with  a  gable  one  foot 
higher,  making  the  extreme  height  four  feet  eight  inches  to  the 
top  of  the  gable.  It  is  made  two  stories  high  with  nest  boxes, 
roosts,  feeding  troughs,  etc.,  on  the  second  floor.  Aside  from 
the  space  required  for  nest  boxes,  stairs,  etc.,  there  is  left  about 
thirty  square  feet  of  floor  space,  which  is  ample  room  for  six 
laying  hens  and  one  male  bird,  fifty  chicks  the  first  three  weeks, 
or  twenty-five  chickens  until  they  weigh  three  pounds  each. 
Ffteen  pullets  may  be  matured  until  they  are  ready  to  lay,  or 
twelve  capons  grown  to  perfection.  These  coops  have  many 
advantages,  and  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  they  are  more  ex- 
pensive to  build,  we  should  use  more  of  them. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

They  are  made  from  half-inch,  three-fourths  or  one-inch 
lumlDcr  either  matched  or  square  edged  and  dressed.  When  a 
good  grade  of  matched  lumber  is  used  in  the  construction,  and 
nicely  painted  they  make  a  very  attractive  coop  that  does  not 
look  out  of  place  in  the  best  kept  yards.  When  the  cheaper 
gradesof  lumber  are  used  it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  entire  out- 
side with  water-proof  roofing  material,  and  when  a  good  grade 
is  used  and  nicely  applied  they  are  attractive  and  durable. 

The  ends  are  made  three  feet  wide,  three  feet  eight  inches 
high  to  the  eaves,  and  one  foot  higher  to  the  top  of  the  gable. 
One  end  is  made  solid  with  three  cross  cleats  of  one  by  two  inch 
lumber,  one  being  nailed  at  the  bottom,  one  two  feet  from  the 
oottom  for  the  second  floor  to  rest  on  and  the  other  across  to 
the  eaves.  The  other  end  is  made  like  a  frame  with  three  inch 
sides,  three  inch  bottom  and  a  gable,  leavingan  opening  two  feet 
six  inches  wide  by  three  feet  five  high  to  be  covered  on  the  inside 
with  muslin  and  wire  netting  to  keep  out  dogs,  cats,  rats,  etc. 
Extremely  cold  nights  the  coop  is  closed  with  the  exception  of 
this  window  which  provides  the  necessary  ventilation.  Where  the 
climate  is  very  cold  it  is  well  to  make  a  frame  just  the  right  size 
to  fit  this  opening,  covering  it  with  muslin  on  the  outside  to  keep 
out  the  cold.  When  in  place  there  will  be  about  an  inch  space 
between  the  two  thicknesses  of  muslin  covering  the  window 
opening. 


ov 

The  sides  are  composed  of  two  panels  twenty-two  inches 
wide  by  six  feet  long  and  hinged  in  the  center,  the  top  half  being 
secured  with  screws  to  the  ends,  and  the  bottom  half  left  unfasten- 
ed so  it  may  be  opened  by  swinging  up  from  the  bottom.  Both 
sides  are  made  alike,  or  if  more  light  is  desired  in  the  lower  story, 
the  upper  part  of  one  of  these  sides  may  be  made  of  a  long  sash, 
such  as  used  in  the  brooder  coop.  _ 

The  floor  for  the  second  story  is  made  three  feet  wide  and 
five  feet  ten  inches  long,  leaving  an  opening  ten  inches  wide  by 
twenty  inches  long  at  the  window  end  for  the  stairs  which  are 
made  from  a  board  just  wide  enough  to  close  the  opening  and 
three  feet  long.  Cleats  are  nailed  on  to  aid  the  chickens  in  climb- 
ing, and  the  board  is  hinged  at  the  back  end  so  it  may  be  lifted 
on  very  cold  nights  to  retain  the  heat,  and  closed  while  very 
young  chickens  are  being  raised  in  the  upper  story  until  they  are 
large  enough  to  use  the  stairs. 

The  back  portion  of  the  roof  Is  covered  with  one  panel  two 
feet  wide  by  six  feet  four  inches  long,  allowing  a  projection  of 
two  inches  at  the  eaves  and  over  the  gable  ends.  The  front  is 
the  same  length  and  two  inches  wider,  and  divided  into  two  sec- 
tions, that  one  may  be  raised  at  a  time.  They  are  cleated  on  the 
ends  of  the  boards,  as  battens  would  interfere  with  the  frames 
under  them.  They  are  hinged  to  the  top  of  the  back  roof  and 
allowed  to  extend  over  it  one  inch  so  there  will  be  a  one-inch  lap 
when  the  front  is  open, to  prevent  the  rain  from  leaking  through. 

Two  frames  are  made  of  7-8x1  1-2  inch  lumber,  mitered  and 
nailed  at  the  corners,  and  just  the  right  size  to  fit  the  opening 
when  the  front  half  of  the  roof  is  raised.  One  of  these  frames  is 
covered  with  muslin  and  the  other  with  wire  netting.  In  fine 
weather  both  sides  of  the  front  portion  of  the  roof  are  opened, 
and  on  very  cold  days  the  side  over  the  muslin.  These  frames  are 
made  to  slide.  In  feeding  and  caring  for  the  fowls  one  frame  is 
slid  over  the  other,  and  both  are  removed  when  cleaning  the  sec- 
ond floor  after  the  fowls  have  been  driven  down  stairs. 

In  making  the  nests,  a  ten-inch  board,  two  feet  four  Inches 
long  is  placed  in  the  opposite  end  from  the  window,  fourteen 
inches  from  the  end ;  two  pieces  of  board  fourteen  inches  long  and 
three  inches  wide  are  used  to  divide  the  two  nests  and  hold  the 
straw  in  place  where  the  hens  enter. 

The  wide  board  is  eight  inches  shorter  than  the  width  of  the 
coop,  and  is  fastened  to  the  front  side  of  the  coop,  leaving  an 
eight  by  ten  inch  space  at  the  back  side  for  the  hens  to  enter  the 
nests,  which  are  under  the  roost  boards. 

A  board  fourteen  inches  wide  by  three  feet  long  Is  placed 
over  the  nests  with  a  two-inch  strip  around  the  sides,  and  a  roost 


one  by  two  Indies  and  ttiree  feet  long  is  iastenea  in  position  in  tnc 

center  of  the  board  three  inches  above  it.  The  roost  is  used  for 
a  handle  to  remove  the  dropping  board  when  gathering  the  eggs 
or  to  clean  the  board,which  should  be  a  portion  of  the  day's  work. 

A  strip  of  board  four  inches  wide  is  placed  at  the  window  end 
of  the  coop  next  to  the  stairs  to  prevent  the  litter  from  being 
scratched  down  stairs. 

Frames  are  made  of  7-8x1  inch  strips  of  lumber  and  covered 
with  one-inch  wire  netting  to  enclose  the  two  sides  of  the  lower 
story.  Two  short  strips  an  inch  square  and  4  in.  long  are  nailed 
to  the  foundation  about  4  in.  from  each  end.  The  frames  are 
hinged  to  these  strips,  and  a  round  spring  window  catch,  to  hold 
the  frame  in  position  when  closed,  is  put  through  the  top  strip 
of  the  frame,  The  frames  are  lowered  when  spading  or  raking 
the  soil.  They  are  made  enough  smaller  than  the  opening  soJ> 
that  they  will  not   bind. 

A  frame  is  made  of  two-by-fours  six  feet  long  and  three  feet 
wide.  They  are  set  edgewise  and  are  used  as  sills.  Place  them 
where  you  wish  the  coop  to  stand,  and  level  them,  with  the  top 
about  two  inches  above  the  ground,  leaving  a  two-inch  space  to 
be  filled  with  fine  gravel  and  sand.  The  coop  is  placed  on  these 
sills,  and  faces  the  south  in  winter  and  north  in  summer. 

The  door  on  the  back  side  of  the  first  floor  of  the  coop  is 
never  opened  in  winter,  and  the  front  side  is  opened  on  pleasant 
days.  By  opening  both  sides  and  the  front  half  of  the  roof  in 
summer,  a  shade  is  provided  by  the  hanging  doors  and  roof, 
admitting  a  free  circulation  of  air  to  keep  the  fowls  comfortable, 
and  in  fine  condition. 

As  these  coops  are  all  made  from  panels  they  may  be  con- 
structed indoors,  and  but  a  few  minutes  will  be  required  to  set 
them  up  when  completed. 

Twelve-feet  lumber  either  six  or  twelve  inches  wide  is  used 
without  waste  and  with  but  little  ripping  the  boards. 

Or  if  it  is  desired,  one  of  the  long  sash  described  in  connection 
with  the  other  coops  may  be  used  in  the  upper  side  of  the  floor 
that  encloses  the  lower  part.  If  used,  the  upper  outer  edge  may 
be  beveled  so  that  it  is  only  as  thick  as  the  board  above  it,  to 
shed  water,  and  the  hinges  let  in  as  far  as  necessary  so  that  the 
inside  will  be  flush  to  allow  the  door  to  close.  This  will  furnish 
an  abundance  of  light  in  cold  and  stormy  weather,  when  the  lower 
part  must  be  closed. 


n 

DOUBLE  WINTER  COLON  V  COOP. 

We  hardly  expect  farmers  to  build  many  of  the  single  winter 
colony  coops  on  account  of  the  small  number  of  birds  they  afford 
protection  for  and  the  additional  amount  of  labor  required  in 
caring  for  a  number  of  small  flocks,  in  place  of  the  one  large  one 
generally  kept  on  the  farm.  However,  should  they  try  several 
small  flocks  in  place  of  the  one  large  one,  it  would  not  require 
many  seasons  to  show  them  the  advantages  to  be  gained  and  the 
increased  egg  production  derived  by  the  use  of  the  colony  system. 

Our  double  house  is  designed  largely  for  this  class  of  poultry 
keepers,  as  well  as  for  others  who  have  but  little  time  to  care  for 
fowls,  and  for  those  living  in  very  cold  sections.  With  birds 
having  large  combs  the  double  coop  has  advantages.  The  birds 
are  warmer  in  this  coop,  yet  they  have  all  the  advantages  of  the 
single  coop,  excepting  that  the  fiock  is  double  the  size.  There  are 
twice  the  number  of  birds  in  the  coop,  and  the  natural  heat  would 
be  twice  as  great;  besides  they  are  more  than  twice  the  distance 
from  the  muslin  window  in  the  end,  making  the  loss  from  radia- 
tion very  much  less  than  where  the  birds  roost  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  window. 

THE  NEW  ECONOMY  COOP  FOR  WINTER  AND  SUMMER 

USE. 

During  the  past  two  years  while  raising  so  many  fowls  on 
our  small  city  yard  we  have  been  forced  many  times  to  keep  more 
fowls  in  the  coops  than  is  best  and  have  often  kept  the  pullets 
in  the  brooder  coops  until  they  matured  and  commenced  laying. 
When  the  weather  grew  cold  in  the  fall,  it  was  necessary  to  close 
the  coops  at  night  making  it  too  low  for  the  fully  matured  fowls 
so  they  did  not  have  head  room  in  the  brooder  coops.  It  was 
then  necessary  to  double  them  up  by  removing  the  top  of  one 
and  setting  another  one  on  top  of  it  to  miake  the  coop  about  two 
feet  high.  These  we  used  for  keeping  odd  lots  of  cockerels  not 
used  in  our  breeding  pens,  and  pullets  not  likely  to  commence 
laying  very  soon,  and  we  have  been  surprised  to  note  the  condi- 
tion of  the  fowls  thus  kept  and  how  early  the  pullets  commenced 
laying,  and  also  how  well  they  continued  to  lay  while  thus  con- 
fined. W^e  also  learned  that  the  fowls  in  three  of  these  coops  could 
be  cared  for  in  about  the  same  length  of  time  required  to  care  for 
those  in  one  of  the  W^inter  Colony  Coops.  This,  of  course,  would 
not  matter  much  where  there  were  but  few  fowls,  but  where  a 
great  many  nf  them  arp  kept,  the  savins:  of  a  little  time  in  cnrinc; 


72 


The  Foundation  of  the  Coop  and  the  Roost  Board  in  the 
Hand  of  a  Practical  Poultry  Keeper 

for  each  coop  is  a  matter  worthy  our  consideration.  One  of  the 
objections  to  our  system  of  housing  the  laying  stock  has  been  in 
the  amount  of  labor  necessary  in  looking  after  so  many  coops,  and 
the  cost  of  building  our  regular  Winter  Colony  Coop.  We  hardly 
think  it  possible  at  the  present  time  to  construct  any  kind  of 
house  or  coop  that  will  bring  about  as  desirable  conditions  for 
the  poultry  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  at  the  same  cost  and 
outlay  for  material  and  labor  as  in  the  new  coop. 

Before  giving  the  plans  to  our  readers,  we  have  experimented 
in  building  several  different  styles,  until  we  are  qrettv  well  con- 


73 

vinced  that  the  one  we  now  have  is  superior  in  many  respects 
to  anything  we  have  formerly  produced.  Our  efforts  have  been 
largely  to  economize  along  all  lines,  and  for  this  purpose  have 
tried  to  construct  all  of  our  coops  without  glass,  and  several  coops 
were  made  and  used  without  any  glass  making  it  necessary  to 
leave  the  roof  slightly  raised  that  the  fowls  might  get  light 
through  the  muslin  covered  sliding  frame.  When  driving  storms 
came  we  were  annoyed  by  the  rain  blowing  under  the  cover. 


The  Nest  is  Placed  in  the  Back  Center  of  the  Floor  End 

Coop,  and  is  Fastened  Near  the  Top,  Giving  the 

Hens  the  Floor  Room  Under  It 


and  snow  drifting  in  during  the  day  when  it  was  necessary  to  give 
the  fowls  light.  Of  course  on  cold,  stormy  nights  the  coops  are 
always  completely  closed  and  the  storm  is  kept  out. 

Mr,  Cox  discovered  that  a  small  light  of  glass  in  front  of 
his  brooder  coop  would  be  an  advantage,  so  the  top  might  be 
completely  closed  during  severe  storms,  and  we  could  at  once 
see  that  it  would  be  a  decided  advantage  in  our  deep  coops,  and 
we  are  now  making  them  with  the  sash  six  feet  long  and  one  foot 


wide  to  take  the  place  of  the  front  board  on  the  upper  section  of 
the  coop. 

We  find  it  an  advantage  to  make  a  foundation  to  set  these 
coops  on  where  the  ground  is  wet,  and  raise  the  ground  in  one 
end  of  the  foundation  two  or  three  inches  above  the  level  of  the 
ground  outside  of  the  coop.  The  foundation  can  be  made  of 
inexpensive  lumber  and  when  used  will  save  the  bottom  edges 
of  the  coop  from  decaying,  making  the  cost  less  to  keep  the  coops 
in  the  best  condition  after  being  used  many  years. 


After  Cleaning  the  Roost  in  the  Morning  it  is  Turned 
Up  Edgewise  Against  the  Back  of  the  Coop 


CONSTRUCTION: — The  foundation  frames  are  made  of 
lx4in.  lumber  just  thesizeofthecoop,  six  feet  long  and  three  feet 
wide  outside  with  a  four-inch  partition  in  the  center.  In  one  end 
of  the  coop  the  floor  is  laid  on  strips  about  one  and  one-half  inches 
from  the  bottom  to  keep  the  boards  off  the  ground  and  prevent 
them  from  getting  damp.  The  floor  is  then  covered  with„one- 
ply  roofing  material  that  the  moisture  from  the  top  may  not 
penetrate  the  boards  when  the  litter  becomes  damp. 

The  coops  and  foundations  were  formerly  made  of  square 
edged  boards.  We  are  now  making  them  ship  lapped  to  hold  the 
sections  and  foundation  together  without  being  nailed  and  to 


77 


pieveni  cne  stuims  dua  wina  iroiii  going  tnruugn  the  open  cracks 
which  are  likely  to  appear  when  square  edged  boards  are  used. 
Any  lumber  dealer  understands  the  term  ship  lap  so  that  you  will 
not  have  any  trouble  in  getting  this  kind  of  lumber.  The  next 
section  of  the  box  which  rests  on  the  foundation  is  made  from 
lumber  twelve  inches  wide  and  is  just  the  right  size  to  fit  the 


!l 


The}Roost  Board  is  Dropped  at  Night  as  Shown  in  the 
Illustration 


foundation.  The  top  section  is  also  made  from  the  same  width 
lumber  (twelve  inches  wide)  and  just  fits  on  the  under  section 
making  the  coop  three  feet  wide  by  six  feet  long  and  twenty- 
four  inches  deep.  The  end  boards  of  the  top  section  are  ten  and 
three-fourths  inches  wide  or  one  and  one-fourth  inches  narrower 
than  the  front  and  back  of  the  coop ,  to  allow  room  for  the  sliding 
frame  and  about  three-eighths  inch  space  between  theframe  and 
roof  for  ventilation  through  the  muslin  curtain  when  the  roof 
is  closed.  A  sash  one  foot  wide  by  six  feet  long,  having  six  panes 
of  glass  is  used  to  form  the  front  of  the  coop,  and  the  bottom  of 
the  sash  is  also  rabbeted  to  fit  the  foundation.  Parting  strips 
1-2x7-8  in.,  which  are  used  in  building  window  frames,  may  be 
had  at  almost  any  lumber  yard.  These  are  nailed  lengthwise  on 
the  inside  of  the  back  board  and  the  inside  top  edge  of  the  sash 


L  i-4  in.  down  Irom  che  top  feu  that  they  will  jusi  curat-  level  with 
the  ends  of  the  coop  for  the  muslin  frame  to  slide  on. 

SLIDING  FRAME:— The  muslin  frame  is  made  of  7-8x1-2 
in.  strips  of  lumber  mitered  at  the  corners  and  with  a  center  piece 
of  the  same  material  to  strengthen  the  long  sides.  The  frame  is 
then  covered  with  one-inch  wire  netting  and  over  this  is  tacked 
an  inexpensive  grade  of  unbleached  muslin.  The  entire  frame 
is  covered  for  cold  weather,  or  where  the  climate  is  cold,  but  dur- 
ing the  warm  weather  only  one-half  of  the  frame  is  covered  with 
muslin.  This  frame  may  be  made  of  1-2x1  1-2  or  2-in.  strips  and 
lapped  at  the  corners  instead  of  mitering,  which  might  be  easier 
for  some  people  who  are  not  accustomed  to  this  kind  of  work. 

We  are  now  putting  the  Paroid  on  top  of  the  frame  work 
instead  of  on  the  under  side,  with  three  strips  on  top  as  described 
below. 

In  making  the  roof  two  strips  6  ft.  2  in.  long  are  used,  the 
front  one  3  in.  wide,  and  the  back  one  2  in.  For  the  ribs  on  the 
under  side  we  use  eight  strips  2  ft.  9  in.  long  and  2  in.  wide,  and 
one  strip  2  ft.  9  in.  long  and  3  in.  wide.  For  the  top  we  use  two 
strips  3  ft.  2  in.  long  and  2  in.  wide,  and  one  strip  3  ft.  2  in.  long 
and  3  in.  wide.     All  these  are  7-8  in.  thick. 

The  Paroid  is  3  ft.  wide  and  we  cut  two  pieces  3  ft.  2  in. 
long.  The  ends  of  each  piece  of  Paroid  are  nailed  to  the  long 
strips  with  the  outer  edge  of  each  piece  even  with  the  ends  of  the 
long  strips.  This  makes  the  roof  6  ft.  2  in.  long  and  3  ft.  2  in. 
wide,  with  a  2  in.  open  space  in  the  center  between  the  two  pieces 
of  Paroid. 

Now  turn  the  roof  over  and  nail  the  nine  2  ft.  9  in.  strips, 
the  3  in.  one  in  the  center,  between  the  inside  edges  of  the  long 
strips.  These  shorter  strips  should  be  cut  so  as  to  crowd  the  long 
strips  apart  and  stretch  the  Paroid  to  remove  all  wrinkles.  When 
these  strips  are  all  nailed  in  their  places,  turn  the  roof  over  again 
and  nail  the  Paroid  to  these  short  strips,  taking  pains  to  see  that 
the  inside  edges  are  securely  fastened  to  the  3  in.  strip.  Fill  the 
space  between  the  edges  with  roofing  cement  or  paint,  and  also 
let  it  come  over  a  little  on  each  edge.  You  now  have  left  the  three 
3  ft.  2  in.  strips;  nail  the  3  in.  strip  over  this  center  space,  and 
a  2  in.  strip  at  each  end.  This  will  now  be  the  top  of  the  roof, 
with  three  strips  showing  over  the  Paroid,  while  the  under  side 
will  have  the  two  long  strips  and  nine  short  ones.  This  arrange- 
ment makes  the  roof  absolutely   waterproof. 

A  strip  of  wood  1-2  in.  thick  by  1  1-2  in.  wide  and  3  ft.  long 
is  used  to  hold  the  roof  in  any  desired  position.  A  small  hole  is 
bored  through  one  end  of  the  stick  to  fasten  it  to  the  top  edge  of 


1% 

the  front  sash.  The  hole  should  be  large  enough  to  allow  the  stick 
to  move  at  any  angle  without  binding  but  not  so  large  that  it  will 
slide  off  the  head  of  the  screw.  Several  larger  holes  are  bored  in 
the  stick  so  that  they  will  slide  over  the  head  of  the  screw  in  the 
,  center  of  che  front  edge  of  the  roof  that  it  may  be  adjusted  at  any 
desired  angle,  as  it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  change  the  adjust- 
ment in  varied  weather  conditions.  When  the  sun  shines,  the 
roof  should  be  wide  open,  and  when  it  is  stormy,  it  should  be 
nearly  closed,  but  not  entirely  closed  unless  the  weather  is  very 
cold. 

In  making  the  roost  board  a  frame  15  in.  wide  and  2  ft.  10 
in.  long  is  made  of  7-8  x  1  1-2  in.  strips.  Roofing  material  is 
nailed  to  the  bottom  of  this  frame  which  makes  it  very  light  and 
easily  cleaned.  Two  small  blocks,  1  1-2  in.  wide  and  4  in.  long 
are  nailed  on  the  top  edge  of  the  ends  of  the  frame.  A  strip  of 
wood  for  the  roost,  7-8  in.  thick  and  2  in.  wide,  with  the  corners 
slightly  rounded,  is  nailed  on  these  blocks.  We  formerly  placed 
this  roost  board  across  one  end  of  the  coop,  but  after  using  the 
sash  in  the  front  of  the  coop  it  would  make  it  rather  cold  for  the 
hens  roosting  on  the  end  next  to  the  window.  The  roost  is  now 
being  placed  against  the  back  side  and  in  the  end  without  the 
floor.  The  center  board,  8  ins.  wide,  is  set  edgewise  on  the  center 
board  of  the  foundation  and  is  held  in  place  with  cleats  nailed  to 
the  inside  of  the  coop.  The  board  is  to  prevent  the  hens  from 
scratching  the  straw  into  the  end  without  the  floor.  Small  cleats 
are  nailed  horizontally  to  this  center  board  and  also  in  the  end  of 
the  coop  15  ins.  down  from  the  top  to  support  the  roost  board, 
and  during  the  day  the  roost  may  be  turned  up  edgewise  against 
the  back  of  the  coop  to  make  more  room. 

The  nest  is  used  in  one  corner  of  the  coop  at  the  top  and  is 
made  12  in.  wide,  16  in.  long  and  10  in.  deep.  The  bottom  board 
is  24  ins.  long  to  provide  a  lighting  place  for  the  hens  in  entering 
the  nest.  The  coops  should  face  the  south  during  the  winter  and 
north  in  the  summer. 

In  the  construction  of  three  of  our  coops  in  the  illustration 
eight-ounce  duck  cloth  is  used  in  place  of  lumber.  It  is  tacked 
both  on  the  inside  and  outside  of  light  wood  frames  allowing  an 
air  space  of  nearly  an  inch.  We  are  not  sure  that  more  than  one 
thickness  is  required  even  where  the  temperature  drops  many 
degrees  below  zero.  Where  the  weather  is  warmer  the  coop 
would  answer  every  purpose  when  covered  with  muslin  or  cotton 
cloth,  and  when  only  one  thickness  of  the  cloth  is  used  in  cover- 
ing the  sides  of  the  coop  the  sash  in  front  would  be  a  very  small 
item. 


80      . 

CARE  OF  THE  FOWLS :— Oat  straw  is  used  in  the  floor  end 
of  the  coop  about  four  inches  deep  and  during  damp  weather  it 
is  necessary  to  change  the  straw  twice  each  week,  although  it  is 
generally  in  good  condition  for  a  week  during  the  winter  and  two 
weeks  during  the  summer. 

The  first  thing  in  the  morning  a  little  wheat  or  buckwheat 
is  sprinkled  in  the  straw,  after  being  sure  that  there  is  not  any  left 
over  from  feeding  the  day  before.  The  droppings  on  the  roost 
boards  are  emptied  into  a  bushel  basket  and  the  roosts  turned  up 
edgewise  out  of  the  way  against  the  back  of  the  coop.  The  water 
troughs  are  then  rinsed  and  filled.  A  handful  of  oats  is  spaded 
in  the  dirt  end  of  the  coop  and  all  straw  and  rubbish  scratched 
over  the  center  board  are  removed.  Sprouted  oats  are  then  fed. 
A  warm  mash  is  used  for  the  noon  feed,  consisting  of  equal  parts 
by  measure,  of  wheat  bran,  ground  oats  (hull  and  all),  and  corn 
meal,  and  as  much  cut  alfalfa  or  clover  as  the  fowls  can  be  in- 
duced to  eat.  We  are  now  using  it  so  that  it  constitutes  one-half 
the  bulk  of  the  mash.  One  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  black  pepper  is  used  in  a  half  bushel  of  feed.  Boiling  water 
is  used  to  moisten  the  mash,  and  after  it  is  thoroughly  mixed  it 
is  covered  for  a  half  hour  or  more  to  steam  and  swell  before  feed- 
ing. One  pint  of  good  beef  scraps  may  be  added  to  a  half  bushel  of 
feed,  although  good  results  may  be  had  without  them.  It  is 
possible  to  get  very  good  results  without  the  warm  mash  by  keep- 
ing wheat  bran,  and  cut  clover  in  the  hoppers.  It  is  best  to  keep 
each  kind  of  food  in  separate  hoppers  that  the  fowls  may  make 
their  own  choice  in  balancing  their  ration.  About  one  hour  be- 
fore dark,  cracked  corn  and  wheat  or  buckwheat,  is  thrown  in 
the  straw  when  there  is  not  any  left  from  the  morning  feeding. 
The  roosts  are  then  dropped  in  place  and  the  eggs  gathered. 

When  these  coops  are  used  and  this  system  of  care  and  feed- 
ing is  employed,  the  eggs  will  surely  pay  for  the  feed  and  labor, 
besides  leaving  a  good  balance  for  profit.  We  have  one  pen  of 
White  Leghorns,  seven  hens  and  a  cockerel,  that  have  produced 
eggs  enough,  at  an  average  price  of  30  cents  a  dozen,  to  yield  a 
profit  of  nearly  three  dollars  per  hen  in  seven  months,  from  De- 
cember to  July. 

WINTER    QUARTERS. 

The  climatic  conditions  differ  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  a 
difficult  proposition  to  formulate  definite  plans  that  would  be 
best  adapted  to  all  localities.  The  foremost  thought  in  planning 
should  be  to  arrange  the  winter  quarters  for  the  comfort  of  the 


81 

fowls,  although  this  is  generally  a  secondary  matter  and  the  ta- 
tendant's  comfort  and  ease  in  handling  the  poultry  is  often  the 
first  to  be  considered.  This,  of  course  should  not  be  ignored  when  it 
is  possible  to  combine  comfort  for  both  the  poultry  and  the  keeper; 
and  right  here  I  wish  to  make  the  statement  that  women  are  often 
the  most  successful  poultry  keepers,  for  the  reason  that  they  look 
more  to  the  comfort  of  the  fowls  than  does  the  average  man. 

It  matters  not  what  the  breed  or  what  the  feed  may  be:  when 
comfortable  quarters  are  not  provided,  the  results  will  not  be 
satisfactory.  Even  though  wishing  to  follow  our  system  of  keep- 
ing poultry,  it  is  not  positively  essential  that  the  old  poultry  houses 
be  discarded  and  a  lot  of  our  system  coops  arranged  to  take  their 
place  in  which  to  winter  the  poultry.  The  winter  house  is,  in 
fact,  the  least  important  in  our  new  way  of  keeping  poultry  so 
long  as  the  flocks  are  small  and  the  coops  comfortable.  It  is  a 
fact,  however,  that  when  poultry  have  access  to  the  finel^^  sifted 
ground  in  at  least  a  small  section  of  the  coops  theresultswill  be 
more  satisfactory  than  when  they  are  confined  over  a  cement  or 
board  floor  and  do  not  have  access  to  the  ground,  and  the  eggs  will 
be  of  better  quality  from  which  to  produce  strong  chickens. 
While  the  ground  is  an  advantage  it  is  not  an  absolute  necessity 
to  get  good  results.  The  upper  story  of  a  building  may  be  utilized 
for  winter  quarters  when  such  rooms  are  already  on  a  place  where 
one's  space  and  capital  are  limited. 

Comfort  for  the  fowls  means  as  much  sunshine  as  it  is  possible 
to  get,  no  dampness,  and  fresh  air  from  muslin  or  open  windows 
when  the  weather  conditions  will  permit,  even  though  very  cold. 

The  size  and  shape  of  the  glass  windows  and  other  openings 
to  be  covered  with  muslin  are  of  the  greatest  importance  and  sel- 
dom get  the  proper  consideration.  The  windows  should  be  the 
long  way  up  and  dov/n  instead  of  being  placed  in  a  horizontal 
position,  that  the  rays  of  the  sun  may  reach  every  foot  of  floor 
space  sometime  during  the  day,  and  to  get  these  results  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  window  openings  be  nearly  full  length  between  the 
sill  and  plate. 

When  the  house  has  but  one  slant  to  the  roof,  the  high  side 
should  face  the  south,  when  the  windows  can  be  placed  in  che 
south  side  of  the  building.  If  the  windows  are  to  be  placed  in  the 
east  side,  the  front  or  high  side  of  the  building  should  face  the  east, 
as  the  rays  of  the  sun  will  then  reach  a  greater  depth,  or  farther 
back  in  the  room  than  when  the  windows  are  placed  under  the 
eaves  or  on  the  low  side  of  the  building. 

A  great  many  houses  have  been  built  with  the  low  side  facing 
the  south, the  builder  thinking  that  the  sun  shining  directly  against 
the  roof  would  furnish  more  heat.     There  is  always  plenty  of 


heat  when  the  sun  shines,  and  the  sun  is  of  greater  value  when 
shining  in  the  building  than  on  the  broad  side  of  the  roof. 

The  greater  the  depth  of  the  building,  the  larger  the  windows 
and  muslin  openings  should  be,  that  the  rear  of  the  room  may  be 
lighted  on  the  darkest  days.  When  the  room  is  6  ft.  wide  by  6 
ft.  deep  it  should  be  provided  with  a  window  having  six  panes  of 
9  X  12  glass,  and  a  room  6  ft.  wide  by  12  ft.  deep  should  have  a 
window  with  twelve  panes  of  9  x  12  glass,  and  twenty-four  panes 
the  same  size  are  not  too  many  when  the  room  is  12  ft.  wide  by 
12  ft.  deep,  in  order  that  the  hens  may  readily  find  the  small  ker- 
nels of  grain  in  the  deep  litter  on  the  darkest  days.  The  vsize 
9  xl2  is  given  as  a  basis  from  which  to  estimate  the  correct  amount 
of  glass  and  muslin  for  any  size  room. 

The  opening  for  the  ventilation  should  be  practically  the  same 
size  as  the  window  and  a  light  wood  frame  covered  with  a  coarse 
grade  of  unbleached  muslin  made  to  close  the  opening  on  very 
cold  or  stormy  days  and  at  night. 

Ten  hens  in  a  pen  6  x  6  ft.,  having  six  panes  of  9  x  12  glass, 
should  give  good  results,  and  when  the  pens  are  larger,  one  hen  to  a 
pane  of  glass  is  all  that  should  be  allowed,  and  they  should  never 
exceed  the  limit  of  the  room  12  x  12  ft.,  having  twenty-four  panes 
of  glass,  9  X  12,  and  twenty-four  hens. 

It  will  not  require  as  much  labor  to  care  for  a  given  number 
of  hens  when  in  large  flocks,  but  to  get  the  very  best  results,  six 
hens  should  be  the  limit  of  the  number  kept  in  a  single  pen. 

The  opening  should  always  be  on  the  south  side  of  the  house 
when  it  is  possible.  There  are  many  poultry  houses  and  barns 
already  built  which  could  be  adapted  to  the  business,  and  it  is 
not  always  possible  to  get  the  opening  on  the  south  side  on  ac- 
count of  their  location  or,  possibly,  by  their  joining  other  build- 
ings on  the  south. 

Our  next  choice  would  be  the  east  side  for  the  opening,  that 
the  fowls  may  get  the  early  morning  sun,  and  when  it  is  possible 
to  arrange  openings  on  both  the  east  and  west  sides,  the  most 
desirable  conditions  may  be  had  by  opening  the  east  side  during 
the  forenoon  and  the  west  side  during  the  afternoon.  When  thus 
planned  :'t  will  be  necessary  to  arrange  close  fitting  doors  that 
when  one  si  "e  i^  closed  and  the  other  open  there  will  not  be  any 
cracks  through  which  to  create  a  draught.  This  plan  also  has  the 
advantage  of  making  it  possible  to  open  the  side  of  the  building 
on  which  the  wind  is  not  blowing,  on  cloudy  days. 

When  the  openings  are  on  two  sides  as  above,  the  roosting 
boxes  or  bed  rooms  should  be  p'aced  about  in  the  center  of  the 
room  on  the  south  side,  and  when  the  opening  is  on  the  south  side 
of  the  building  the  boxes  should  be  placed  directly  opposite  on  the 


north  side  of  the  room.  1  he  roobiing  boxes  should  be  just  large 
enough  to  accommodate  the  fowls,  allowing  room  for  the  long  tails 
of  the  male  birds  and  just  room  enough  to  allow  the  fowls  to 
stand  on  the  perches  without  hitting  their  heads  against  the  ceil- 
ing of  the  boxes. 

The  perches  should  be  about  three  inches  from  the  bottom 
of  the  boxes  to  prevent  the  fluff  feathers  from  being  soiled.  The 
front  is  the  only  opening  of  the  roosting  boxes,  but  this  should 
be  closed  with  a  curtain  made  of  a  coarse  grade  of  muslin  tacked 
along  the  top  edge  of  the  box  and  arranged  to  hang  close  at  the 
bottom  and  sides. 

By  providing  a  run-way  to  the  roosting  boxes  with  an  en- 
trance at  one  end  of  the  lower  corner,  the  muslin  curtain  may  be 
gradually  closed,  as  the  fowls  become  acquainted  with  the  new 
roosting  quarters,  until  it  is  all  hooked  down  leaving  but  one  cor- 
ner loose.  The  fowls  will  soon  learn  the  door- way  and  will  enter 
the  box  at  night  and  leave  it  in  the  early  morning  without  at- 
tention.    The  boxes  should  be  cleaned  every  day. 

Dry,  clean  litter  is  of  the  greatest  importance  and  the  fowls 
seem  to  get  the  most  comfort  when  scratching  for  small  particles 
of  food,  and  are  nearly  covered  in  the  litter.  Oat  straw  is  as  good 
as  any  material  and  can  be  obtained  in  small  bales  in  nearly  all 
_  localities.  Although  this  is  not  especially  of  any  great  food  value, 
"it  is  surprising  to  see  how  much  of  it  will  be  eaten  by  the  fowls 
even  though  they  are  provided  with  cut  clover,  sprouted  oats 
and  other  green  food.  It  is  not  generally  understood  how  much 
bulky  food  is  required  and  when  this  is  not  provided  they  will  often 
greedily  devour  feathers  longer  than  one's  finger,  which  is  no  doubt 
one  of  the  reasons  for  feather  pulling. 

The  yearly  cry  of  infertile  eggs  is  more  often  due  to  a  lack  of 
coarse  food  than  to  any  other  cause. 

If  looking  for  a  sight  that  will  do  your  heart  good,  just  throw 
a  handful  of  finely  chopped,  cooked  lean  beef  in  a  thick  covering 
of  oat  straw.  The  straw  will  not  only  fly,  but  the  music  made  by 
the  hens  will  do  one  good  who  is  a  lover  of  the  music  furnished 
by  a  healthy  flock.  This  is  one  kind  of  music  that  pays,  and  pays 
well,  as  the  singing  hen  is  sure  to  be  productive  and  make  its 
owner  feel  like  singing  even  though  unable  to  "pitch  a  tune." 

We  have  taken  up  the  matter  quite  fully  regarding  com- 
fortable winter  quarters,  and  we  do  not  wish  to  be  misunderstood, 
leaving  an  impression  that  winter  chickens  can  as  well  be  raised 
in  buildings  as  in  brooder  coops  placed  out  of  doors.  Raising 
chickens  is  a  decidedly  different  proposition  from  that  of  keeping 
them  after  they  have  been  raised,  and  when  the  best  success  is  to 


84 

be  had  it  will  Dt  riecei)aai>  tu  icnac  tiiv.  ^mcKca*  jn  tfie  grouna  in  a 

regular  brooder  coop. 

We  would  not  think  of  keeping  more  than  fifteen  hens  in  a 
pen  and  six  hens  will  do  better.  Where  the  climate  is  very  cold 
we  would  not  allow  over  four  square  feet  floor  space  to  a  hen,  but 
inwarmer  localities,  where  the  temperature  seldom  reaches  zero, 
it  is  best  to  allow  each  hen  a  floor  space  of  five  or  six  square  feet. 

The  ceihng  of  the  room  should  not  be  higher  than  is  required 
to  give  the  keeper  head-room  when  caring  for  the  fowls.  When 
necessary  to  economize  in  the  remodeling,  strips  of  wood  or  poles 
may  be  strung  across  the  ceiling  and  thickly  covered  with  straw 
or  other  inexpensive  material.  Several  thicknesses  of  burlap 
sacking  tacked  to  the  under  side  of  the  strips  of  boards  will  also 
make  a  desirable  ceiling,  and  when  this  is  used  the  straw  would 
not  be  required  unless  where  the  fowls  to  be  wintered  have  large 
combs  and  it  is  desirable  to  make  the  coop  as  warm  as  possible. 

We  have  great  success  in  raising  poultry  in  our  small  coops, 
three  feet  by  six  feet.  The  young  chicks  are  kept  at  first  in  the 
low  brooder  coop,  one  foot  high ;  when  they  outgrow  this,  they  are 
placed  in  the  Ecomony  coop,  which  affords  ample  space  for  them 
as  long  as  they  are  kept  for  breeders. 

The  low  coop  can  be  converted  into  the  higher  one  by  adding 
J.  twelve  inch  section  between  the  foundation  and  the  one  with  the 
sash,  and  to  which  the  roof  is  attached. 


GALVANIZED  IRON  TROUGH. 

The  galvanized  iron  trough  shown  in  the  illustration  is  well 
adapted  to  our  colony  coops,  and  is  used  either  for  food  or  water. 
The  illustration  shows  the  construction.  The  size  we  generally 
use  is  three  and  one-half  inches  deep,  and  two  and  one-half  inches 
across  the  opening  and  fifteen  inches  long.  The  top  edge  is  turn- 
ed back,  forming  a  groove  which    is  hooked  over  special  nails 


85 

With  large  headh,  so  that  cht  trough  may  Oc  placefl  mthout  look 

ing  for  the  nails  or  holes. 

Ice  is  easily  removed  by  springing  the  sides,  and  the  trough 
will  expand  rather  than  crack  when  the  water  is  freezing. 

By  giving  the  ends  a  half-inch  bevel,  making  the  bottom  one 
inch  shorter  than  the  top,  they  may  be  nested,  and  will  take  less 
room  when  stored. 


SPROUTING  OATS 


Green  Food  Costing  About  15  Cents  Per  Bushel. 

This  food  has  proved  itself  to  be  for  us  a  most  excellent  egg- 
producer.  It  serves  as  a  green  food  all  the  year  around,  and  the 
fowls  are  extremely  fond  of  it.  The  way  this  food  is  prepared  is 
as  follows: 

Take  a  quantity  of  oats  or  rye  and  soak  them  in  water  for 
twelve  hours.  Then  pour  off  the  water  and  put  the  cats  in  an  ordi- 
nary box  which  has  holes  in  the  bottom  and  let  the  water  drain  off. 
The  oats  are  watered  with  a  sprinkling  pot  night  and  morning 
and  are  stirred  with  a  stick  or  hand,  before  watering.  As  soon  as 
the  oats  begin  to  sprout  we  spread  them  cut  in  a  box  to  the  thick- 
ness of  about  an  inch,  and  still  continue  to  water  them  night  and 
morning,  but  do  not  stir  them  after  they  begin  to  sprout.  In 
about  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  depending  upon  how  warm,  the  room 
is  in  which  they  are  kept,  they  will  be  ready  to  feed.  When  in  the 
proper  condition  to  feed,  the  sod  will  be  about  two  inches  thick, 
and  the  growth  of  green  feed  on  top  willbeabout  oneortwo  inches 
high.  We  feed  a  block  about  two  or  three  inches  square  of  this  to 
each  pen  of  six  fowls.  We  have  been  using  this  feed  throughout  the 
winter  and  must  say  that  our  hens  never  laid  so  well.  We  have 
averaged  a  fifty  per  cent,  egg  production  all  winter  long.  This 
can  also  be  fed  to  young  chicks,  although  it  should  be  fed  at  a  lime 
when  the  sprouts  are  just  starting,  or  they  should  be  cut  fine. 


OVER  $1,000  FROM  POULTRY  AND  EGGS  PRODUCED 

FROM  SIXTY  BREEDING  HENS  IN  EIGHT 

MONTHS  ON  A  CITY  LOT  FORTY 

FEET  SQUARE. 

Under  several  headings  in  this  book  we  give  particulars 
about  our  work  this  season  that  has  brought  such  large  returns 
from  sixty  hens  on  a  space  forty  feet  square  in  our  city  garden. 
While  these  figures  are  the  result  of  our  labor  for  several  months 
less  than  a  year,  it  has  taken  us  six  years  to  build  up  the  strain 
of  fowls  from  which  this  record  was  made.  With  our  present 
knowledge  of  breeding  as  set  forth  in  this  book  we  think  a  better 
record  could  be  made  in  a  shorter  space  of  time. 

By  having  our  little  plant  on  a  prominent  street  In  the  city 
we  had  free  advertising,  and  it  proved  to  be  of  the  ver}'  best  kind. 
Parties  passing  could  hardly  help  seeing  a  beautiful  lot  of  pure 
white  fowls  nicely  kept,  and  those  who  were  familiar  with  poultry 
could  readily  see  that  they  were  well  bred. 

We  commenced  setting  the  Cycle  Brooder  Hatcher,  or  Metal 
Mother,  on  the  10th  of  December,  1907,  so  that  the  first  chickens 
would  hatch  on  the  first  of  January.  Another  loc  was  set  a  week 
later  to  get  some  baby  chickens  to  exhibit  in  the  Elmira  Poultry 
Show. 

The  baby  chickens  were  brooded  in  the  Metal  Mother  the 
first  week,  and  eggs  were  being  incubated  in  the  same  machine 
constantly  from  Dccemberuntilthe  present  time,keeping  a  supply 
of  newly-hatched  baby  chickens  in  a  glass  case  where  they  could  be 
seen  by  people  passing  by.  It  was  noc  long  before  there  was 
such  a  demand  for  the  eggs  at  $5  per  sitting  that  all  we  could 
spare  w^ere  soon  engaged. 

These  early  chickens  were  also  hatched  to  test  the  brooders 
without  heat  during  the  coldest  weather^  and  the  results  were  very 
much  better  than  we  had  ever  had  before  with  winter  chickens. 
On  account  of  the  winter  hatching  during  a  few  previous  years, 
our  hens  were  more  productive  during  the  three  winter  months 
than  at  any  other  time  of  the  year,  and  one  of  the  greatest  mis- 
takes we  ever  made  was  in  selling  over  a  thousand  eggs  for  table 
use  when  they  should  have  been  incubated.  It  would  have  been 
an  easy  matter  to  raise  at  least  500  chickens  from  the  eggs  sold 
for  table  use,  and  the  early  chickens  would  have  brought  more 
cash  than  we  have  received  from  all  other  sales.  It  would  have 
been  necessary  to  increase  the  size  of  the  plant  during  the  time  of 
raising  the  chickens,  and  that  would  have  been  an  easy   matter 


87 

asthe^^arden  at  that  time  was  not  in  use  and  would  have  been  im- 
proved if  covered  with  coops  until  planting  time. 

It  is  now  nearly  the  first  of  September  and  we  are  still  setting 
all  the  eggs  noi  sold  for  hatching  and  will  continue  to  do  so  all 
through  the  winter  that  we  may  get  the  full  value  of  every  egg 
laid  by  our  hens,  and  will  make  an  effort  to  double  the  returns 
the  coming  year  from  our  small  city  plant. 

During  the  eight  months,  beginning  January  1st,  1908,  we 
made  the  following  cash  sales  of  eggs,  chickens  and  poultry,  all 
of  which  have  been  produced  on  one  small  lot  less  than  40  feet 
square : 

Broilers  and  table  eggs $  149 .  00 

Eggs  for  hatching ,  349 .  00 

Baby  chickens  fresh  from  the  hatcher ,  283  .  00 

Hens,  pullets  and  cockerels  for  breeding 275 .  00 

S1056.00 

We  have  on  hand  about  200  head  of  chickens,  from  those  just 
hatched  to  fully  matured,  more  than  we  had  at  the  beginning  of 
the  year,  and  whenthey  are  sold  the  net  profit  from  this  very  small 
poultry  plant  will  exceed  $1,500.00  in  one  year. 

While  the  space  of  ground  occupied  by  the  poultry  has  been 
given  as  forty  feet  square,  one  corner  of  this  space  had  a  small 
building  on  it  not  used  for  poultry  where  fifty  or  more  chickens 
could  have  been  raised,  adding  considerable  to  the  ret  urns  from  the 
small  plot  of  ground. 

On  account  of  the  great  amount  of  business  we  have  had 
during  the  year  the  poultry  w^ork  has  of  ten  been  neglected,  and  the 
chickens  and  poultry  allowed  to  suffer.  We  hope  to  do  better 
the  coming  year  and  give  the  poultry  better  care,  that  we  may 
learn  just  how  many  dollars  worth  of  poultry  it  is  possible  to 
raise  on  a  square  foot  of  ground  in  one  year. 

We  now  have  grape  vines  set  between  the  coops  to  furnish 
shade,  and  when  they  com.e  into  full  bearing  will  add  many  dollars 
to  the  income  of  the  plant. 

There  were  always  eggs  with  imperfect  shells  that  were  not 
suitable  for  hatching,  supplying  the  table  for  a  family  of  five. 
One  to  three  chickens  have  been  used  on  the  table  nearly  every 
week,  no  account  of  which  is  given  in  this  report. 


HOW  POULTRY  HELPS  TO  MAKE  A  GOOD  GARDEN. 

In  estimating  the  value  of  poultry  products  the  real  value 
of  the  fertilizer  produced  is  too  often  lost  sight  of.  Comparing 
its  value  with  th?.t  of  the  commercial  fertilizers  it  would  be  per- 
fectly safe  to  credit  the  poultry  business  with  at  least  one-fourth 
the  total  amount  of  the  feed  bill  and  especially  when  one  has  land 
enough  to  use  it  to  the  best  advantage  in  growing  small  fruit  or 
other  graden  truck. 

From  the  recent  tests  we  have  made  of  its  use  we  hardly 
think  its  true  value  is  correctly  estimated.  Like  our  intensive 
system  of  poulcry  culture,  wonderful  results  may  be  had  from  a 
very  small  space  of  ground  by  using  it  much  more  liberally  than 
has  been  considered  advisable.  It  is  a  fact  that  too  liberal  a  use 
at  an  improper  time  will  kill  almost  any  kind  of  vegetation,  but 
with  proper  application  fully  one-fifth  in  bulk  may  be  mixed  with 
the  average  soil,  producing  surprising  results. 

About  the  middle  of  June,  or  too  late  in  the  spring,  as  stated 
by  a  florist,  to  grow  Cannas  to  perfection,  we  thought  a  nice  bed 
in  our  front  yard  would  improve  its  looks,  and  we  started  out  with 
a  determined  effort  to  kill  or  cure  as  the  case  might  be.  Three 
bushels  of  fertilizer  which  had  been  emptied  in  the  garden  previous 
to  several  heavy  rain  storms  was  mixed  with  three  times  its  bulk 
of  garden  soil.  This  was  placed  where  the  plants  were  to  be  set, 
at  a  depth  of  ten  inches.  About  two  months  after  the  plants  were 
set  some  of  them  were  over  six  feet  tall  and  have  continued  to 
grow  since  the  photograph  was  taken. 

When  extremely  large  quantities  of  the  fertilizer  are  to  be 
used  it  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  and  subjected 
to  several  rain  storms,  before  planting  time,  or  placed  where  the 
heating  properties  will  be  destroyed  before  it  is  to  be  used. 

We  now  keep  large  piles  mixed  with  garden  soil  and  sifted 
for  immediate  use  so  that  any  kind  of  plants  may  be  set  at  any 
time. 

Grape  vines  were  set  in  rows  running  north  and  south  and 
the  rows  about  eight  feet  apart  to  furnish  shade  during  the  ex- 
treme heat  of  the  summer.  They  were  set  one  year  ago  last 
spring  and  the  Summer  Colony  Coops  were  placed  close  to  the 
roots  of  the  vines.  Quantities  of  the  fertilizer  have  been  spaded  in- 
to the  ground  almost  daily.  In  addition  to  this  they  were  banked 
with  a  very  rich  mixture  to  a  depth  of  about  ten  inches  as  a  pro- 
tection to  the  roots;  however,  after  one  year's  growth  the  vines 
were  photographed  showing  their  condition  and  the  abundance  of 
fruit  they  are  carrying  as  the  result  of  a  single  season's  growth. 

One  hundred  strawberry  plants  were  set  in  rows  about  six 


feet  apart.  Large  quantities  of  unadulterated  fertilizer  were 
placed  between  the  rows  which  would  have  covered  the  entire 
plot  of  ground,  and  the  fertilizer  was  gradually  worked  into  the 
soil  around  the  plants,  producing  remarkable  growth  of  plants 
and  heavy  fruiting  this   season. 

Several  varieties  of  roses  were  treated  in  a  like  manner  giv- 
ing us  a  constant  supply  of  roses  for  table  bouquets  all  through  the 
dry  summer  months.  The  cut  given  in  connection  with  this 
article  was  made  from  a  photograph  taken  from  roses  picked  from 
our  bushes  the  latter  part  of  August. 

Tender  broilers,  eggs,  fruit,  vegetables  and  roses  fresh  from 
the  garden  as  often  as  desired  is  a  luxury  not  enjoyed  by  many 
people.  By  adopting  the  intensive  culture  and  making  every 
available  foot  of  ground  produce  something  of  value,  nearly  every- 
one could  enjoy  at  least  a  portion  of  the  good  things  and  of  better 
quality  than  could  be  procured  from  the  market. 

HOW  TO  MAKE  A  LIVING  FROM  POULTRY. 

This  is,  without  doubt,  the  one  question  uppermost  in  the 
minds  of  many  of  our  readers,  and  to  answer  it  intelligently  is  by 
no  means  a  small  undertaking.  However,  we  know  for  a  fact 
that  there  is  a  living  in  keeping  pcultr^^  and  a  better  living  than 
ninety-nine  out  of  every  hundred  who  seek  work  for  a  living  are 
making. 

It  is  far  from  a  "get  rich  quick"  scheme,  and  can  only  succeed 
with  almost  constant  care  and  deep  study  that  no  little  detail  may 
be  neglected  and  a  positive  knowledge  at  all  times  that  ever>'  last 
chicken  or  hen  in  the  flock  is  not  suffering  from  neglect. 

An  educated  eye  to  take  in  the  tiue  condition  of  the  birds  at 
a  glance  is  of  more  value  to  the  poultry  keeper  than  the  unlimited 
use  of  money,  if  the  keeper  profits  by  what  is  seen  and  does  the 
necessary  work  at  once  to  improve  the  conditions.  "Tomorrow" 
will  never  answer  in  a  successful  poultry  business. 

In  ninety-nine  cases  of  failure  in  any  business  the  cause  may 
be  traced  to  the  lack  of  attention  to  business  at  the  proper  time, 
ortogiving  more  thought  to  the  things  not  concerning  the  business 
and  unless  one  is  willing  to  devote  almost  the  entire  timeand  thought 
to  the  many  little  things  so  important  to  success,  the  chances  are 
against  the  living  from  poultry.  It  is  also  the  one  business  where 
brains  count  for  more  than  muscle,  as  the  muscle  can  be  purchased 
at  a  moderate  price,  but  the  brains  must  accompany  the  living. 

It  is  very  nice  and  also  a  shorter  road  to  the  living  to  be  able 
to  purchase  valuable  birds  that  are  worth  the  price,  still  it  is  not 


'  92 

a  necessary  requisite  ic«>  cne  besi  siicce»o.  All  breeaers,  even  the 
most  successtul,find  their  mosc  difficult  task  to  be  the  keeping  the  ir 
young  chickens  alive,  and  when  one  is  successful  in  raising  them 
there  will  be  more  to  bank  on  for  the  living  than  in  being  able  to 
find  a  market  for  that  which  they  cannot  raise. 

We  get  hundreds  of  letters  telling  of  some  particular  location 
and  asking  advice  regarding  the  possibilities  for  them  in  the  poul- 
tr5^  business  there  and  our  answer  would  be  nearly  the  samie  to 
all,  as  the  location  is  but  a  small  factor  in  the  development  of  a 
poultry  business,  provided  that  the  ground  is  dry,  or  tha  t  it  could 
be  drained.  Many  places  are  naturally  fitted  and  could  be  turned 
into  a  poultry  yard  with  but  little  work  and  expense. 

In  asking  our  advice  as  to  the  possibihties  in  any  particular 
case  we  could  give  a  more  accurate  answer  if  we  knew  the  person 
who  would  have  charge  of  the  poultry  than  we  could  by  having  a 
full  description  of  the  land  and  buildings  where  the  business  is  to 
be  handled. 

One  should  possess  an  unusual  amount  of  stick-to-itiveness 
and  have  a  determined  mind  to  win  at  the  chosen  occupation. 
All  other  things  must,  and  will,  come  by  degrees,  and  a  successful 
plant  may  be  established  in  a  very  short  time  when  the  proper 
push  is  behind  the  enterprise. 

After  being  satisfied  that  one  is  qualified  for  the  business  and 
is  willing  to  work  for  the  living  just  as  would  be  necessary  when 
employed  by  another,  the  work  of  raising  the  chickens  to  per- 
fection should  be  the  first  one  to  master,  as  it  is  the  foundation 
of  the  poultry  business. 

Fully  three-fourths  of  the  the  poultry  that  will  soon  go  into 
winter  quarters  will  be  too  oM  to  be  profitable,  and  in  nearly  every 
case  it  is  on  account  of  not  having  been  able  to  raise  the  chickens, 
and  in  many  instances  they  have  been  carelessly  lost  from  neglect. 

At  the  present  stage  of  poultry  keeping  there  is  no  excuse  for 
allowing  dogs,  cats  or  hawks  to  carry  the  young  chickens  off,  any 
more  than  a  successful  merchant  would  leave  the  door  of  his  store 
unlocked  thinking  that  possibly  by  some  good  luck  the  goods 
would  always  be  found  in  the  place.  At  least  ninety  per  cent, 
of  the  chickens  hatched  should  be  raised  to  maturity  and  unless 
this  can  be  accomplished  year  in  and  year  out,  there  is  something 
faulty  about  the  care  or  system,  which  should  be  changed  or  cor- 
rected. 

The  one  in  charge  of  the  poultry  plant  is  the  greatest  factor 
in  making  the  business  a  success.  If  determined  to  win  and  work 
along  some  definite  line,  success  will  be  sure. 

I  have  always  been  considered  visionary,  and  the  longer  J 
live  the  more  neprl  therp  sjPAmc  fr»r  onf  to  he  visionary    if  tfaf^rp  isr 


93 

CO  be  anything  gamed  in  hie  more  man  «  iivmg.  We  must  set 
our  stakes  high,  then  drive  hard  to  the  mark  until  the  goal  for 
which  we  are  aiming  has  been  reached. 

There  is  a  good  living  in  poultry  by  just  keeping  ordinary 
thoroughbred  stock.  Still  greater  success  may  be  had  when  the 
best  quality  is  kept,  and  they  should  be  improved  each  year. 
The  demand  for  poultry  of  the  finest  quality  is  always  in  excess  of 
the  supply,  and  when  one  has  some  extra  good  ones  to  sell  the  pro- 
fits are  greatly  increased  and  there  is  an  incentive  for  one  to  aim 
still  higher.  As  a  basis  for  estimating  profits  for  the  production 
of  market  eggs  we  will  take  for  granted  that  the  average  hen  with 
the  average  care  will  produce  150  eggs  in  a  year,  and  that  it  will 
cost  as  much  to  raise  the  hen  as  she  will  bring  after  completing 
the  year's  work  of  producing  eggs.  The  difference,  then,  between 
the  cost  of  feed  consumed  and  the  amount  the  eggs  will  bring 
would  be  all  profit  (or  pay  for  labor  when  the  owner  is  doing  the 
work). 

The  average  market  price  for  eggs  is  twenty-four  cents  a 
dozen,  making  the  net  proceeds  from  the  hen  during  the  year 
$3.00.  At  the  present  high  price  for  feed  and  grain  it  will  cost 
$1.50  to  supply  a  150-egg  hen  365  days,  leaving  a  net  profit  of 
$1.50  a  year.  One  good,  active  person  can  care  tor  1,000  laying 
hens  which  would  yield  a  profit  of  $1,500.00,  when  the  care  given 
the  entire  lot  would  be  equal  to  the  care  given  a  single  flock  or 
six  hens  in  a  pen. 

It  now  costs  $1.85  a  year  to  keep  a  200-egg  hen,  making  the 
per  cent,  profit  greater  than  when  the  150-egg  hen  is  kept,  at  a 
cost  of  $1.50  a  year,  and  the  difference  between  the  150-egg  hen 
and  the  200-egg  hen  is  largely  in  the  breeding,  although  the  care 
given  them  has  about  as  much  to  do  with  a  large  egg  yield  as  the 
breeding.  $1 ,500.00  a  year  would  be  considered  quite  a  snug  little 
income  by  the  average  person  and  is  more  than  the  average  per- 
son would  make,  for  the  simple  reason  that  they  do  not  think  it 
possible  to  get  such  returns  and  are  afraid  to  set  their  stakes  for 
fear  of  failure,  which  only  comes  to  those  who  are  looking  for  it, 
just  as  the  greatest  success  comes  to  one  who  dreams  dreams  and 
sees  visions  and  then  uses  the  talent  given  to  carry  on  the  work  as 
planned,  in  the  most  practical  and  business-like  manner. 

At  the  average  market  price  of  eggs  the  net  price  from  600 
laying  hens,  kept  in  flocks  of  six  hens  each,  at  the  Australian  lay- 
ing contest,  has  been  $3.37  a  hen,  and  the  amount  is  increasing 
each  year,  as  the  store  of  knowledge  of  the  keeper  is  increasing 
and  the  poultry  improved  to  make  every  move  count  for  more 
eggs. 

The  most  rommnn  ran<ip  of  failurp  in  the  ooultry  business  is 


without  doubt,  trom  inattention  and  its  being  handled  as  a  side 

issue,  the  fowls  getting  but  a  remnant  of  thought  and  attention  i 

after  one  is  exhausted  by  close  attention  to  other  business  and  has  '= 

nothing  left  for  the  sadly  neglected  poultry.     Give  the  poultry  : 

the  same  careful  study  and  care  it  is  necessary  to  give  any  other  \ 

remunerative  business  and  there  will  not  be  any  question  as  to  { 

which  will  pay  the  best.  1 

NEW  AND  BETTER  FACILITIES.  J 

We  have  purchased  thirty  acres  of  land  in  this  city,  about  one  ■ 

mile  from  our  present  location  for  the  purpose  of  conducting  a  ' 

poultry   school  and   experimental  poultry  plant.     The  land  is  ; 

nicely  situated,  being  between  two  direct  lines  of  street  cars  and  ; 

is  also  easy  of  access  to  three  of  the  principal  railroads  of  the  city.  ' 

There  are  about  twelve  to  fifteen  acres  of  high,  gravelly  ground,  ! 
slightly  rolling,  and  a  portion  of  this  ground  has  a  gradual  slope 

to  the  south.     This  part  will  be  used  for  our  poultry  plant.      The  ] 

balance  of  the  ground  is  low  and  not  available  in  the  present  con-  : 
dition  for  poultry  culture,  but  this  will  not  matteras  we  shall  only 
devote  a  portion  of  the  ground  at  first  to  our  poultry  work.     We 
shall  use  several  hundred  coops,  about  half  of  them  for  mature 
fowls,  and  the  others  for  chickens  of  various  ages.     From  each 

breeding  pen  of  five  hens  and  one  cock  we  can  raise  from  100  to  200  ; 

chicks  each  year,  and  in  this  way  can  increase  the  flock  to  alriiost  i 

any  extent,  and  at  the  same  time  furnish  several  thousands  of  ; 

young  chicks  and  growing  fowls  for  breeding  purposes.  ; 

In  addition  to  the  poultry  that  will  be  kept  on  the  two  acres  j 
there  will  be  grape  vines,  plum  and  cherry  trees  and  sun  flowers 

to  furnish  shade  during  the  summer.     The  hens  will  make  the  ■ 

vines,  trees  and  sunflowers  productive  and  at  the  same  time  they  I 

will  be  greatly  benefitted  during  the  hot  summer  months  by  being  ! 

protected  from^e  direct  rays  of  the  sun.  i 

This  article,  we  trust,  will  serve  a  double  purpose,  by  giving  ■ 

our  readers  a  thorough  understanding  of  the  work  we  are  under-  i 

taking,  viz:  « 

1. — The  possibility  of  a  large  poultry  business  on  two  acres  of  •; 

ground. 

2. — The  excellent  opportunities  offered  anyone  who  would  like  ; 

thoroughly  to  masterall  branches  of  poultry  work,  and  the  practical  . 

plan  for  others  to  follow  to  get  larger  returns  from  a  small  plot  of  ; 

ground  than  can  be  had  in  almost  any  other  way.  i 

The  portion  of  the  farm  devoted  to  poultry  culture  is  slightly  i 
raised,  the  north  side  being  about  four  feet  higher  than  the  sduth 


ll-' 


which  is  loui  iiunarcu  lecc  uistant  int  doii  xa  acvci  maday , 
being  composed  of  sand,  gravel,  loam  and  cobble-stones,  and  the 
ground  can  be  walked  over  any  season  of  the  year  without  soiling 
more  than  the  soles  of  one's  shoes.  The  natural  conditions  are  the 
very  best  with  the  exception  of  the  stones  which  can  be  screened 
outatany  time, although  this  will  requireagreatamount  of  labor, 
but  will  be  labor  well  spent  when  the  work  is  finally  completed. 

The  soil  must  be  fine  and  mellow  to  induce  the  fowls  to  scratch 
in  searching  for  grain  buried  beneath  the  surface. 

During  the  winter  the  coops  are  open  to  the  south  to  catch 
every  ray  of  sunshine  and  in  the  summer  they  face  the  north,  the 
roof  acting  as  a  shade  board,  and  four  sun  flowers  planted  vsouth 
of  each  coop  help  to  shade  the  fowls  from  the  piercing  sun  during 
the  warmest  days. 

Even  though  a  thousand  acres  are  given  a  flock,  better  con- 
ditions can  not  be  had  for  growing  chickens  to  perfection  or  for 
getting  the  largest  yields  from  laying  hens. 

A  long  concrete  feed  and  supply  building  with  an  incubator 
cellar  is  placed  at  the  south  end  of  the  poultry-  plant,  and  the  feed 
and  supplies  will  be  easily  accessible  so  that  the  work  may  be 
handled  with  the  greatest  ease.  The  incubator  cellar  will  be 
provided  with  one  hundred  hatchers  for  the  use  of  the  students. 

Four  mon  ths  of  the  year  oats  will  be  sprouted  in  the  cellar  to 
supply  the  fowls  with  green  food  in  addition  to  the  alfalfa  or  dry 
clover  clippings  which  will  be  fed  liberally  in  the  moist  mash  at 
noon. 

To  produce  the  best  quality  of  clover  clippings  a  two  acre  lawn 
Fceded  with  White  Dutch  clover  will  be  cut  with  a  lawn  mower 
every  week  and  the  clippings  spread  out  two  inches  deep  under 
cover  to  dry,  and  before  making  the  second  cutting,  the  first  lot 
will  be  ready  to  sack  and  store  away  for  the  winter  supply  to  be 
fed  during  the  months  of  December,  January,  February  and 
Mar  h. 

The  farm  will  be  used  for  educational  and  experimental  pur- 
poses and  will  be  made  to  pay  a  larger  profit  than  one  would 
think  possible.  Raising  chickens  and  compelling  the  hens  to  be 
productive  is  no  longer  an  experiment  with  the  writer,  and  if 
permitted  to  retain  his  health  and  carry  on  the  work  out'  ined,  there 
will  not  be  any  question  as  to  the  final  outcome  of  the  enterprise. 
There  is  yet  m.uch  to  be  learned  about  keeping  poultry ,  and  with 
the  advantages  of  the  farm,  of  imiproved  breeding  stock  and  of  the 
increased  facilities  we  shall  have  for  conducting  the  experiments, 
we  hope  to  give  our  readers  the  results  of  many  valuable  lessons 
learned  during  the  year  and  for  many  years  to  come. 

We  furm«b  on  annther  ipage  fh.fi  ©Laji  for  our  new  hatcher  and 


98 

brooder  house  nov/  In  use  at  the  farm.  The  building  has  been 
planned  to  serve  instruction  purposes,  and  to  take  care  of  the 
chicks  from  the  time  they  are  hatched  until  well  past  the  danger 
point.  Everything  has  been  laid  out  so  as  to  facilitate  the  work, 
and  we  feel  that  this  arrangement  will  better  suit  our  purpose 
than  anything  we  have  ever  tried  when  handling  chicks  in  large 
numbers.  It  will  be  noted  that  it  is  the  intention  to  start  the 
chicks  inside  in  a  heated  building.  It  has  been  thought  best  to 
follow  this  plan  for,  in  the  school  work  the  brooders  must  be  opened 
frequently  for  inspection  and  demonstration,  and  this  condition 
is  very  hard  on  the  chicks  in  cold  weather,  and  It  Is  somewhat 
easier  to  feed  and  care  for  them  on  stormy  days,  although  we  are 
sure  that  without  any  heat  at  all  we  get  chicks  of  greater  vitality. 
The  building  is  approximately  12  by  106  feet,  two  stories 
high,  and  is  constructed  of  concrete  and  cement  brick.  We  have 
been  fortunate  enough  to  find  several  deposits  of  sand  of  excellent 
quality  on  the  farm,  and  this,  combined  with  the  natural  gravel 
f  ou  ndation  has  given  us  very  desirable  and  lasting  building  mate- 
rial. 

^Even  with  these  favorable  conditions  the  building  has  cost 
about  one  thousand  dollars.  The  building  extends  east  and  west 
with  the  coops  and  runs  on  the  south  side.  At  the  left  of  the  en- 
trance at  the  east  end  are  the  stairs  leading  to  the  second  floorand 
to  the  pit  for  the  heater  to  warm  the  building.  The  main  floor  Is 
about  two  feet  below  grade  In  order  to  bring  the  floor  level  of  the 
coops  at  a  convenient  working  height  and  at  the  same  time  to 
keep  them  level  with  the  ground  outside.  A  four  feet  passage 
runs  the  entire  length  of  the  building,  on  the  north  side  of  which 
there  is  a  concrete  shelf  arranged  to  accommodate  the  hatchers, 
and  of  such  dimensions  that  students  may  operate  machines 
without  Interfering  with  each  other.  On  the  south  side  the  coops 
are  arranged  In  pairs  with  four  feet  side  passages  between  so  as  to 
allow  two  persons  to  work  in  the  same  passage  on  opposite  sides 
at  the  same  time.  The  coops  are  three  by  six  feet  each  in  floor 
area,  and  two  and  a  half  feet  high.  The  front  of  each  coop  is  in 
two  sections,  the  upper  one,  twenty  Inches,  Is  a  screen  and  hinged 
at  the  top  to  swing  in  backward  out  of  the  way,  and  the  lower  one, 
aboard  ten  Inches  wide,  which  Is  stationary,  to  confine  the  little 
chicks  and  to  keep  the  litter  from  being  scattered  outside.  The 
coops  are  made  this  height  in  order  to  confine  a  pen  of  grown  fowls 
when  desirable  for  experiment,  demonstration,  or  to  study  fancy 
points.  The  floors  of  the  coops  are  of  wood,  and  under  this  coop 
floor  there  Is  arrang^^d  a  row  of  drawers  for  feed  and  appliances., 
This  arrangement  Vrill  serve  to  keep  every  thing  connected  with 
each  pen  from  becoming    separated,  or  from  being  misplaced 


93 

which  will  be  a  great  convenience  to  those  taking  charge  of  the 
different  lots  of  chicks.  The  windows  in  front  of  the  coops  are 
made  to  slide  up  and  down,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  top  half  is 
fitted  with  a  muslin  screen,  the  lower  portion  being  raised  when  it 
is  desired  to  give  the  chicks  access  to  the  runs.  This  arrangement 
affords  an  abundance  of  light  as  well  as  ventilation.  The  out- 
side runs  are  three  feet  wide  by  five  and  a  half  feet  long,  with  the 
sides  made  of  concrete.     The  fronts  are  fitted  with  muslin  screens 


Section  of  the  Hatcher  and  Brooder  House 


and  over  the  top  are  hinged  sash  somewhat  similar  to  those  used 
in  hot  beds.  The  runs  are  filled  with  finely  sifted  earth,  and  oats 
will  be  spaded  in  to  afford  green  feed  in  the  chicks*  scratching 
ground.  While  sprouted  oats  themselves  are  somewhat  large 
for  chicks  to  handle,  the  chicks  devour  the  tender  shoots  which 
is  excellent  food  for  them,  and  are  greatly  relished  causing  them 
to  dig  actively,  once  they  have  acquired  a  taste  for  them.  Along 
the  inner  wall  on  the  south  side  under  the  coops  are  placed  the 
heating  coils  for  warming  the  building,  and  it  is  intended  to  main- 
tain a  constant  temperature  of  75  degrees  during  cold  weather. 
The  chicks  will  be  kept  in  fireless  brooders,  which,  combined  with 
the  thorough  ventilation,  will  give  outside  conditions  as  nearly 


100 

as  possible  without  the  likehhood  of  the  chicks  staying  outside 
too  long  and  becoming  chilled. 

Running  water  is  provided  for  the  entire  house,  with  a  faucet 
for  each  pair  of  pens. 

The  second  floor  is  used  for  storage,  and  also  as  a  feed  room 
for  the  various  grains  in  bulk  that  are  used  for  feeding  the  little 
chickens  and  grown  fowls.  The  floor  is  made  of  reinforced  con- 
crete, thus  practically  fire-proofing  the  lower  portion  of  the  build- 
ing. 

Altogether  it  has  been  our  aim  so  to  plan  the  structure  that 
it  will  amply  serve  for  school  purposes,  giving  sufficient  room  to 
move  about  without  undue  interference,  and  at  the  same  time  pro- 
viding suitable  and  safe  quarters  for  the  hatching  apparatus  and 
baby  chicks. 


OUR  NEW  SCHOOL  AND  OFFICE  BUILDING. 

For  the  further  improvement  of  our  poultry  work,  and  o 
give  better  opportunities  for  those  who  wish  to  devote  some  time 
with  us  as  students,  we  have  constructed  a  large  building  three 
store  is  high,  with  about  27,000  square  feet  of  floor  space.  This 
will  giveample  facilities forall  the workconnected with ourpoultry 
school  including  the  two  departments,  the  actual  doing  of  all  kinds 
of  poultry  work  under  competent  instructors,  and  also  for  con- 
ducting the  important  branch  of  our  Correspondence  School. 

This  new  building  is  equipped  with  every  modern  conven- 
ience and  device,  and  will  be  an  ideal  place  for  our  work  and  we 
shall  be  very  glad  to  welcome  friends  and  visitors,  and  give  them 
ail  actual  demonstration  of  the  practical  workings  of  the  Philo 
System. 

We  know  that  it  is  entirely  feasible  for  parties  to  start  a 
poultry  plant  of  their  own  with  only  the  Philo  System  Book  as 
their  guide,  as  thousands  of  people  have  done  so. 

But  there  are  people  who  wish  to  begin  on  an  extensive  scale 
who  would  like  to  qualify  themselves  for  such  an  undertaking  by 
getting  some  practica  1  knowledge  at  first  hand ;  and  for  the  benefit 
of  such  parties  we  have  been  furnishing  personal  instruction  for 
more  than  a  year  to  persons  who  have  come  to  Elmira  for  that 
purpose.  They  have  been  given  an  opportunity  to  learn  how  to 
do  every  part  of  the  work  of  poultry'  raising,  by  actually  doing  the 
work  under  competent  supervision .  and  after  two  or  three  months' 
stay  they  have  gone  away  satisfied  with  the  results,  and  have 
started  plants  of  their  own  or  have  accepted  positions  as  super- 
intendents of  plants  for  other  people. 


101 

But  there  are  so  many  people  who  cannot  spare  the  time  to 
come  here  for  study,  who  want  further  and  definite  instruction 
to  fit  them  for  successful  poultry  business  that  we  have  determined 
to  establish  a  Correspondence  Course,  covering  all  the  theoretical 
and  practical  knowledge  of  the  business,  dividing  the  field  into 
ten  sections,  with  a  carefully  prepared  text-book  for  each,  with  all 
the  facilities  for  mastering  these  lessons  that  are  afforded  by  the 
best  of  the  correspondence  schools  of  the  countr>^  After  each  set  ol 
lessons  has  been  thoroughly  studied,  examination  questions  will 
be  furnished,  and  these  when  properly  answered  will  be  the  basis 
for  a  certificate  of  proficiency  with  the  percentage  of  accuracy 
stated. 

When  one  section  of  the  course  is  finished,  the  next  will  come 
in  regular  order,  and  so  on  until  the  entire  course  is  completed. 
Further  particulars  concerning  either  branch  of  our  school  work 
will  be  furnished  upon  application. 

Address 
Philo  National  Poultry'  Institute, 

Elmira,  N.  Y. 


NOTICE 

All  appliances  used  in   connection  with  the  j 

Philo  System  can    be    purchased  of   the    Cycle  i 

Hatcher  Co.,  Elmira,  N.  Y.  ^ 

Catalogue  free.  ] 


103 

Complete  Index  to  the  Philo  System 

Artificial  Heat 

Better  Poultry  Without  It 3 

Artificial  Incubation 

About  opening  incubator  during  first  week 20 

Avoid  too  much  cooling >1 

Changing  position  of  eggs -21 

Cooling  the  eg^s  at  night ^l 

'*  "        "        on  special  d&ys ^i'i 

Overcoming  defective  work  of  first  week   ^1 

Generation  of  heat  by  growing  chicks 91 

Never  set  eggs  in  two  layers 22 

Rules  for  '?nd  and  3rd  weeks 21-22 

Temperature  of  working  room 21 

The  cause  of  failure 20 

The  instinct  of  the  hen 21 

To  raise  temperature  quickly 21 

Use  of  woolen  cloth  and  hot  water .  .      23 

Watch  the  damper  and  regulator 22 

Best  Age  for  Breeders 

Best  results  from  year  old  hens 12 

Hatching  in  Feb.  and  March 12 

Hens  from  5  to  10  years  old.  .  .    .  12 

Winter  hatched  pullets  quick  molters    12 

Breeders  for  Broilers    9 

"        "     Exhibition 9 

American  Standard  of  Perfection 9 

Chicks  from  first  eggs  after  mating   10 

Keeping  careful  records 10 

Use  of  leg  bands 10 

Breeding  in  Line 

Bad  effect  of  in  breeding 14 

To  insure  good  qualities  of  your  birds 14 

Brooders 

Disadvantages  of  wooden  brooders .....    ^ 

Brooder  coop  advantages  in  rearing  chicks 15 

Brooding  Without  Artificial  Heat 

Baby  chicks  outdoors  in  zero  weather * 47 

Large  brooders  a  mistake V8 

Metal  Mother  first  week  in  cold  weather 57 

Number  of  chicks  in  fireless  brooder 57 

Use  of  fireless  brooder 57 

Perfect  conditions  and  better  birds 3-27 

Care  of  Breeding  Stock 

Adaptability  of  our  summer  and  winter  coopp 14 

Hardening  fowls  to  cold  weather      14 

Must  be  protected  from  draughts 14 

Wintering  breeders  in  barn  loft 14* 


104 

Coop  Construction 

Of  Brooder  Coop 48 

Summer  Colony  Coop 59 

Winter  Colony  Coop 62 

Combination  Economy  Coop 71 

Double  Winter  Colony  Coop 71 

Fireless  Brooder 54 

Galvanized  iron  trough .  84 

Egg  Production 

Early'laying  pullets  best  producers 8 

Gk)od  points  of  a  productive  hen '. 39 

How  to  get  large  egg  yields 40 

Large  hens  not  best ; 8 

Laying  in  cold  w^eather I'i 

The  color  of  eggs 8 

The  hen  for  market  eggs 8 

Measuring  food  bad  practice '. 3P 

Sprouted  oats / 85 

The  rest  periods 8 

Eggs  When  Prices  are  High 

Bringing  the  highest  market  price .  .  .41 

Hatching  in  winter 41 

Out-of-date  methods 40 

Summer  and  fall  chickens .....;'.  J 42 

Natural  breeding  season 40 

Fertility 

Fertility  and  Feeding 13 

after  mating 12 

"        *'     separation 13 

Results  of  change  in  mating l.s 

Sure  results  after  two  weeks  mating 13 

Food 

Cooked  lean  beef 8.i 

Cut  Clover 35 

Chick:s  first  food 28 

Feeding  the  first  three  weeks 2!' 

from  three  to  eight  weeks .:M) 

eight  weeks  to  maturity .so 

Full  crops  at  night 32 

Formula  for  wet  mash 32 

Food  for  cold  weather   ......  1 5 

Green  cut  bone  never  given 15 

Green  food  at  15  cents  a  bushel .......   85 

Give  hens  all  they  will  eat 39 

Hens  properly  fed 8 

Never  feed  grease  except  for  fattening 15 

Oats  spaded  in  dirt  daily. . .v. 80 

Straw  on  floor ,85 

Sprouted  oats .'HO 

Supply  bulky  food  in  the  morning 39 

Water  supply  and  egg  supply. 15 

Winter  food ■•  •    • -  •  •  • 83 

■  Gapes - . .   44 


105 

Grading 32 

Green  Cut  Bone  and  Infertility 3 

Hatching 

Get  ready  before  ordering  eggs 6 

Keep  in  advance  of  your  business 

Hatching  With  Hens 

Active  Hens  the  best'Sitters 24 

Changing  eggs  in  the  nest 24 

Cleaning  eggs 24 

Nests  on  ground  no  better  than  in  the  barn  loft 24 

Raising  the  chicks  in  our  brooders 23 

Saving  the  chicks  by  removing  the  eggs 24 

The  causes  of  poor  results 24 

Helping  the  Chicks  to  Hatch 

Chicks  properly  grovv^n  can  all  be  saved 25 

How^  to  save  them 25 

How  to  Start 

Buy  the  best  eggs  obtainable 5 

Foundation  stock  hatched  in  February  or  March 6 

Starting  with  tw^o  pairs  of  birds 5 

Starting  where  you  now  live 6 

How  to  Use  Coops 48-53-54-59-60-64-71-80 

Large  and  Small  Flocks 

Egg  production 39 

Advantages  of  small  flocks 5-82 

Leg  Weakness 

Indigestion  the  cause 44 

Remedied  by  care  in  feeding 44 

Seldom  occurs  when  chicks  are  on  the  ground 44 

Lice 

Put  powder  on  brooder  cloth 44 

Use  of  boiling  water 44 

Use  of  wood  ashes  for  hens 4 

Location 

A  combination  for  an  acre  lot 7 

Natural  grit 6 

Sandy  and  gravelly  soil '. 6 

Stony  and  lumpy  soil  to  be  avoided 6 

The  new  Philo  plant  and  grounds 100 

Keeping  Eggs  for  Hatching 


Evaporation  of  moisture  decreases  vitality  of  the  chick. 

Low  temperature   not  disastrous 

Germ  killed  by  high  temperature 

Natural  position  for  keeping  eggs  for  hatching  .  .  . 

Not  best  to  turn  eggs  daily  while  waiting 

Temperature  and    evaporation 

Two  weeks  the  limit  for  keeping  eggs  to  hatch  .  .  . 
Setting  eggs  the  day  they  are  laid 


106 

Moisture 

Evaporation  while  waiting  for  hatcher 

Excessive  moisture  produces  too  large  a  chick  for  the  shell 

Supplying  moisture  the  last  week 

Too  little  moisture  and  the  results. 

Pedigree  Breeding 

Banding  chickens 43 

Expanding  the  leg  bands 43 

Mating  the  birds 43 

Records    difficult  to  keep 43 

Sixteen  toe  marks 43 

Plans  for  a  Large  Plant ;  600  Coops  on  2  Acres,  to  Accommdate 

10,000  Ciiicks 94 

Poultry  Helps  the  Garden 

Mixing  the  fertilizer  with  soil 88 

Value  of  the  fertilizer 88 

Pullets 

Properly  matured  in  space  of  one  and  a  half  square  feet 3 

Winter-hatched  pullets  as  breeders 12-4 

Results  of  the  Philo  System 

$1,500  a  year  from  60  hens 86 

Average  eggs  hatched  and  chicks  raised 38 

Another  estimate  of  profits,  chiefly  from  broilers    38 

Cost  of  starting  a  broiler  farm  with  60  lampless  brooders,  coops 

and  incubators 39 

Setting  Brooder- Hatcher  Dec.  10th 86 

Plan  of  new  grounds ...  100 

Philo  National  Poultry  Institute 100 

Selecting  Breeders 

Advantages  of  selecting  anew  breed 

As  to   superiority   of  breeds 

Breed  a  matter  of  choice 7 

Making  sitters  of  non-sitters 7 

Productiveness  between  rest  periods 8 

Strain  considered  above  breed 8 

The  good  breeding  hen 

"Width  of  hen  and  general  make  up 8 

Selection  of  Hatching  Eggs 

Less  than  24  oz.  or  more  than  32  oz.  per  dozen  never  used 20 

Shape  and  color  of  the  shell  important 19 

Test  by  sound 20 

"'   Weight  of  25  oz.  per  dozen  preferred 20 

Sex  Control 

Selection  of  male  and  female 19 

To  raise  70  per  cent  to  90  per  cent  cockerels 19 

To  raise  nearly  all  pullets 19 

Vitality  of  male  and  female 19 

Testing  Eggs 23 

Theories  Without  Foundation    3 


107 

To  Make  a  Living  from  Poultry 

Not  a  "  get  rich  quick  "  scheme 91 

Ordinary  good  stock 93 

Prices  of  eggs  and  profit  per  hen 9S 

Strict  attention  to  business  daily 94 

Trick  of  the  Trade,  A 25 

Two-Pound  Broilers 

In  eight  weeks 35 

Raised  in  space  of  one  square  foot 3 

Tender  as  squab  when  closely  confined 35 

The  food  and  care  of  broilers 85 

To  prevent  leg  weakness  keep  on  spaded  ground 35 

Use  of  salt  and  milk 85 

What  investment  and  profit  to  expect 39 

Winter  Quarters 

Adaptability  of  houses  already  built 82 

Comfort  of  the  fowl 81 

Importance  of  ventilation 82 

Keep  flocks  small 82 

Ground  not  so  important  for  mature  hens  as  for  young  and  grow- 
ing chickens 44-81 

Value  of  sunshine 81 


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